Question:
What chords are you trying…? I’d start with A, then try switching to E, then introduce D, then G, and finally C… When you can switch between all these then you’re "on you way" 
Adam
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – First Kev, we prefer to keep this newsgroup on plain text. Thank you. To answer your question it depends on the chord and the person. About twenty to thirty hours concentrating on any easy two chord change should be enough. Thsi is in hours because if you work 2 hours a day at it then it takes half as long as 1 hour a day. — My email is lonmsmith at att dot net Have a musical day! I have been teaching myself guitar for some 4 whole days now and was just wondering how long it usually takes before you can jump between open chords without taking too much time. Also what is the best way to learn without the aid of a tutor? Book,internet or video? Thanks Sore fingers Kev
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First Kev, we prefer to keep this newsgroup on plain text. Thank you. To answer your question it depends on the chord and the person. About twenty to thirty hours concentrating on any easy two chord change should be enough. Thsi is in hours because if you work 2 hours a day at it then it takes half as long as 1 hour a day. — My email is lonmsmith at att dot net Have a musical day!
I have been teaching myself guitar for some 4 whole days now and was just wondering how long it usually takes before you can jump between open chords without taking too much time. Also what is the best way to learn without the aid of a tutor? Book,internet or video? Thanks Sore fingers Kev
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Kev- I’ve been "playing" for about 8 months. I started with a book/video combo by Larry Little. It teaches some elementary chords E, Em, D, Dm, A, Am, F, G, and C. It also has info on chord progressions and a few songs using the chords you learn (pretty woman, house of the rising sun, etc.). I thought it was very well done and got me going. I’m still working on House, I can allllmmmoooost do it. Jumping from chord to chord really depends on the chord. Some like E minor are easy and you will fly to that one from anywhere. Other’s (like F) will take a lot of practice. But you will see improvement. Just keep practicing the chord progressions and eventually you’ll be able to do it. I still can’t hit most chords as clean or as quick as I’d like to but I see small, incremetal improvements as time goes on so that makes me happy and keeps me working on it. Go to Dansm’s site (search for "dansm accoustic" to find the site) for info on reading tab and strumming patterns, there’s great info there. There are some songs by Tom Petty, John Mellencamp and REM that are not terribly complicated and you feel like a rock star the first time you can actually keep up playing with the recording (even if you sound crappy <g). One last tip that I didn’t know about when I started- strings wear out. I couldn’t figure out why my guitar sounded so blah even after tuning. Replace them after a couple of months or more often if you play alot, they’re cheap. Good luck! Eric
I have been teaching myself guitar for some 4 whole days now and was just wondering how long it usually takes before you can jump between open chords without taking too much time. Also what is the best way to learn without the aid of a tutor? Book,internet or video? Thanks Sore fingers Kev
Response:
I have been teaching myself guitar for some 4 whole days now and was just wondering how long it usually takes before you can jump between open chords without taking too much time. Also what is the best way to learn without the aid of a tutor? Book,internet or video? Thanks Sore fingers Kev
Response:
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
The best way to learn is to _post text_. It makes people nicer. Find a *couple* of good books, then some good sites on the net. Get tabs to easy songs that you know by heart. Learn them. Repeat. It’s really that easy. And don’t get discouraged if you can’t play chords very quickly. Many people experience a long period between when they first attempt to play and when they don’t sound like ass anymore. Have fun http://machelp.habitforming.ath.cx <– out of order
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hi i have a ‘93 chevy with a 3.1 motor i would like to know to to remove the TCC and or if i just unplug it would it do damage in the long run? 2] is it normal for a battery to die within a year {it does’nt hold it’s charge anymore} i disconected the battery while the car was running and the volts were about 12.08 with everything turn on. 3] changing the tranny fuild & filter tomorrow cause it’s not red it’s like a brownish color can this color mean the tranny going? just bought the car a week ago for the wife it has about 150.000 km the body great {the car} ..i own and the original owner of a S-10 ‘89 4.3 217.000 km just love that truck and it still hauls ass.. thanks group
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Is this a 3 or 4 speed automatic? Disconnecting the TCC isn’t a wonderful idea at the best of times as it will hurt the gas mileage, but especially not on the 4-speeds, it seems to make them overheat. As far as the battery, it could be that the battery is shot, or there’s some other power drain that’s causing it to die. Check and make sure none of the lights like the under-hood light (if any), glove compartment, trunk, etc. are not staying on. And as far as the transmission fluid, that probably means the fluid could use changing, but I don’t think it necessarily indicates a significant transmission problem. — Robert Hancock Saskatoon, SK, Canada Home Page: http://www.roberthancock.com/
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – hi i have a ‘93 chevy with a 3.1 motor i would like to know to to remove the TCC and or if i just unplug it would it do damage in the long run? 2] is it normal for a battery to die within a year {it does’nt hold it’s charge anymore} i disconected the battery while the car was running and the volts were about 12.08 with everything turn on. 3] changing the tranny fuild & filter tomorrow cause it’s not red it’s like a brownish color can this color mean the tranny going? just bought the car a week ago for the wife it has about 150.000 km the body great {the car} ..i own and the original owner of a S-10 ‘89 4.3 217.000 km just love that truck and it still hauls ass.. thanks group
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thks for the reply robert: its a 3 speed transmission i took a look at the tcc today whould you know how to remove it ? i check for screws,nuts, clips ect ect and couldnt find a way to remove it……thks in advance – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Is this a 3 or 4 speed automatic? Disconnecting the TCC isn’t a wonderful idea at the best of times as it will hurt the gas mileage, but especially not on the 4-speeds, it seems to make them overheat. As far as the battery, it could be that the battery is shot, or there’s some other power drain that’s causing it to die. Check and make sure none of the lights like the under-hood light (if any), glove compartment, trunk, etc. are not staying on. And as far as the transmission fluid, that probably means the fluid could use changing, but I don’t think it necessarily indicates a significant transmission problem. — Robert Hancock Saskatoon, SK, Canada Home Page: http://www.roberthancock.com/ hi i have a ‘93 chevy with a 3.1 motor i would like to know to to remove the TCC and or if i just unplug it would it do damage in the long run? 2] is it normal for a battery to die within a year {it does’nt hold it’s charge anymore} i disconected the battery while the car was running and the volts were about 12.08 with everything turn on. 3] changing the tranny fuild & filter tomorrow cause it’s not red it’s like a brownish color can this color mean the tranny going? just bought the car a week ago for the wife it has about 150.000 km the body great {the car} ..i own and the original owner of a S-10 ‘89 4.3 217.000 km just love that truck and it still hauls ass.. thanks group
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Taking it out is not worth the trouble, you might as well just pull the plug if you want to just go without it. To get at the TCC solenoid itself, you need to remove the transmission side cover. — Robert Hancock Saskatoon, SK, Canada Home Page: http://www.roberthancock.com/
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – thks for the reply robert: its a 3 speed transmission i took a look at the tcc today whould you know how to remove it ? i check for screws,nuts, clips ect ect and couldnt find a way to remove it……thks in advance Is this a 3 or 4 speed automatic? Disconnecting the TCC isn’t a wonderful idea at the best of times as it will hurt the gas mileage, but especially not on the 4-speeds, it seems to make them overheat. As far as the battery, it could be that the battery is shot, or there’s some other power drain that’s causing it to die. Check and make sure none of the lights like the under-hood light (if any), glove compartment, trunk, etc. are not staying on. And as far as the transmission fluid, that probably means the fluid could use changing, but I don’t think it necessarily indicates a significant transmission problem. — Robert Hancock Saskatoon, SK, Canada Home Page: http://www.roberthancock.com/ hi i have a ‘93 chevy with a 3.1 motor i would like to know to to remove the TCC and or if i just unplug it would it do damage in the long run? 2] is it normal for a battery to die within a year {it does’nt hold it’s charge anymore} i disconected the battery while the car was running and the volts were about 12.08 with everything turn on. 3] changing the tranny fuild & filter tomorrow cause it’s not red it’s like a brownish color can this color mean the tranny going? just bought the car a week ago for the wife it has about 150.000 km the body great {the car} ..i own and the original owner of a S-10 ‘89 4.3 217.000 km just love that truck and it still hauls ass.. thanks group
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Lets take a look….. 1) In very cold weather (very cold being 28 degreesor so), it takes a *very* long time for the heater to warm up, even after 20 minutes of driving, most of the time cool/lukewarm air comes out, while if it’s warmer, say in the 40-50 degree range, the heater can still take 10 minutes to heat up, but it gets hot. At very cold temperatures, the temperature gauge on the dash barely moves at all. Is this a thermometer problem?
Common Explorer problem in that year range — the thermostat gets weak and isn’t able to close completely. In very cold weather you engine never gets a chance to warm up since it is continually being fed with cold water. (Although I find it funny that you consider 28 degrees very cold — here in NY we haven’t even seen 28 in almost a month!) 2) While we’re on the subject of heaters and A/Cs, occasionally, especially during the summer, the blower fan refuses to come on without some.. encouragement. I’ve heard of other ford vehicles having a similar problem but have never found anything out about a solution, the dealership I got the truck from said they couldn’t fix it because they couldn’t reproduce the problem. Thoughts?
Could be a few different things. The fan switch itself could be going and it isn’t making a good electrical connection, the connection on the resistor block could be corroded, or, most likely, the fan motor itself is going bad. You can replace the fan motor pretty easily, and I don’t think the part is very expensive. 3) The driver side seatbelt retractor has become almost impossible to deal with, it has very little power and must be hand fed, are these easy to fix/replace, and how much can I expect to spend on a replacement?
Another common Explorer problem. If you can get the assembly out of the frame you might be able to lubricate the spindle and make it retract more easily. Replacing the seatbelt is simpler, but not cheap. 4) I had a in-dash CD/mp3 player installed about a year ago, overall the system sounds great compared to what it used to, and especially since I still have factory speakers. My one complaint though is that the volume level has become *very* touchy, even setting the volume on 05 out of a max of 40 or deafening. I’ve heard Ford has amps installed, but I can’t seem to find it ( if it even exists or could even be the problem), but if it is creating too much power, how can I bypass it?
It sounds like your installer simply ran the new head unit into the existing amplifier, and if so, that guy should not be installing systems in Explorers. The stock head unit works much like a component in a home stereo system, it just outputs a line-level signal to the outboard amp. Aftermarket head units have their own amplifiers built in, outputting amplified signals ready to go directly to the speakers. In your system you’ve got a high-level signal going into an amp designed for low-level signals — resulting in exactly what you are seeing. Fixing this is fairly simple. You need to bypass the amplifier, which is located above the passenger side rear fender, using an aftermarket wiring harness. There are some harnesses available that just bypass the amp, but what you want is one that comes with wires that run back to the dash. This also allows you to bypass the stock signal-level wires really aren’t rated to handle the power your radio is putting out. Once you make this change, your radio should sound noticeably better. 5) Finally, one very rare problem, occasionally when I start the vehicle (occasionally as in once every month or two), the engine will race up to 3500+ RPM for a split second and go back down to idle speed. This doesn’t seem normal to me. I know it can’t be me accidently hitting the accelerator as it’s happened before with my starting it while standing outside the vehicle. Thoughts?
Not sure about this one, sounds like the engine speed sensor might be going bad. Good luck!
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Lets go through them 1. Sounds like the thermostat is stuck open (cheap item and easily replaced) 2. Could just be a bad connection (can be difficult to trace but start with the blower resistor which is under the hood next to the blower fan) 3. Sorry don’t know the cost but it needs replacing with a new unit (it might not lock when you need it!) 4. If you have the amp it is located on the passenger side behind the rear load bay panel. It can be bypassed with a loom kit from any decent car hifi shop. 5. This sounds like the IAC sticks sometimes. They can be cleaned but some do not have much success with cleaning so replace it. For further help or even help with these check out http://www.explorer4×4.com/ and the forum http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php Hope this helps.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, I own a 1995 Explorer, it’s the first an only vehicle I’ve ever owned and I don’t know a whole lot about them, so I have a few questions to ask, here goes.. 1) In very cold weather (very cold being 28 degreesor so), it takes a *very* long time for the heater to warm up, even after 20 minutes of driving, most of the time cool/lukewarm air comes out, while if it’s warmer, say in the 40-50 degree range, the heater can still take 10 minutes to heat up, but it gets hot. At very cold temperatures, the temperature gauge on the dash barely moves at all. Is this a thermometer problem? 2) While we’re on the subject of heaters and A/Cs, occasionally, especially during the summer, the blower fan refuses to come on without some.. encouragement. I’ve heard of other ford vehicles having a similar problem but have never found anything out about a solution, the dealership I got the truck from said they couldn’t fix it because they couldn’t reproduce the problem. Thoughts? 3) The driver side seatbelt retractor has become almost impossible to deal with, it has very little power and must be hand fed, are these easy to fix/replace, and how much can I expect to spend on a replacement? 4) I had a in-dash CD/mp3 player installed about a year ago, overall the system sounds great compared to what it used to, and especially since I still have factory speakers. My one complaint though is that the volume level has become *very* touchy, even setting the volume on 05 out of a max of 40 or deafening. I’ve heard Ford has amps installed, but I can’t seem to find it ( if it even exists or could even be the problem), but if it is creating too much power, how can I bypass it? 5) Finally, one very rare problem, occasionally when I start the vehicle (occasionally as in once every month or two), the engine will race up to 3500+ RPM for a split second and go back down to idle speed. This doesn’t seem normal to me. I know it can’t be me accidently hitting the accelerator as it’s happened before with my starting it while standing outside the vehicle. Thoughts? Thanks in advance to any help you can give.
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4) I had a in-dash CD/mp3 player installed about a year ago, overall the system sounds great compared to what it used to, and especially since I still have factory speakers. My one complaint though is that the volume level has become *very* touchy, even setting the volume on 05 out of a max of 40 or deafening. I’ve heard Ford has amps installed, but I can’t seem to find it ( if it even exists or could even be the problem), but if it is creating too much power, how can I bypass it?
The people that installed the system should have installed additional items that fixed this problem. When I had some work done on my (new to me) vehicle, the tech made a comment that whoever installed the after market CD player had done this.
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Hi, I own a 1995 Explorer, it’s the first an only vehicle I’ve ever owned and I don’t know a whole lot about them, so I have a few questions to ask, here goes.. 1) In very cold weather (very cold being 28 degreesor so), it takes a *very* long time for the heater to warm up, even after 20 minutes of driving, most of the time cool/lukewarm air comes out, while if it’s warmer, say in the 40-50 degree range, the heater can still take 10 minutes to heat up, but it gets hot. At very cold temperatures, the temperature gauge on the dash barely moves at all. Is this a thermometer problem? 2) While we’re on the subject of heaters and A/Cs, occasionally, especially during the summer, the blower fan refuses to come on without some.. encouragement. I’ve heard of other ford vehicles having a similar problem but have never found anything out about a solution, the dealership I got the truck from said they couldn’t fix it because they couldn’t reproduce the problem. Thoughts? 3) The driver side seatbelt retractor has become almost impossible to deal with, it has very little power and must be hand fed, are these easy to fix/replace, and how much can I expect to spend on a replacement? 4) I had a in-dash CD/mp3 player installed about a year ago, overall the system sounds great compared to what it used to, and especially since I still have factory speakers. My one complaint though is that the volume level has become *very* touchy, even setting the volume on 05 out of a max of 40 or deafening. I’ve heard Ford has amps installed, but I can’t seem to find it ( if it even exists or could even be the problem), but if it is creating too much power, how can I bypass it? 5) Finally, one very rare problem, occasionally when I start the vehicle (occasionally as in once every month or two), the engine will race up to 3500+ RPM for a split second and go back down to idle speed. This doesn’t seem normal to me. I know it can’t be me accidently hitting the accelerator as it’s happened before with my starting it while standing outside the vehicle. Thoughts? Thanks in advance to any help you can give.
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I am leaving for Australia in a few weeks. Arriving in Sidney I am just wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to which hostel I should make reservations, or if I need to make reservations at? Also if anyone knows if jobs , and what type of jobs are available? I have a bus pass taking me along Melbourne, Adelaide, Alice Springs and back down the East Coast. What type of year is it dangerous to swim at the Northern East Coast? Is it dangerous at all beaches? And one more question… How early should I make reservations at a hostel for Christmas?
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I am leaving for Australia in a few weeks. Arriving in Sidney I am just wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to which hostel I should make reservations, or if I need to make reservations at?
Reservations in October? I don’t think so. Sydney has an incredible amount of hostel capacity. Even at Christmas you’ll be fine as long as you show up by 8 or 9 in the morning and are willing to try a few places. Also if anyone knows if jobs, and what type of jobs are available?
Largely the same types of jobs you’ll find in Canada… though if you don’t have a work visa your options will be much more limited. miguel
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I am leaving for Australia in a few weeks. Arriving in Sidney I am just wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to which hostel I should make reservations, or if I need to make reservations at? Also if anyone knows if jobs , and what type of jobs are available? I have a bus pass taking me along Melbourne, Adelaide, Alice Springs and back down the East Coast. What type of year is it dangerous to swim at the Northern East Coast? Is it dangerous at all beaches? And one more question… How early should I make reservations at a hostel for Christmas?
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I am leaving for Australia in a few weeks. Arriving in Sidney I am just wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to which hostel I should make reservations, or if I need to make reservations at?
Reservations in October? I don’t think so. Sydney has an incredible amount of hostel capacity. Even at Christmas you’ll be fine as long as you show up by 8 or 9 in the morning and are willing to try a few places. Also if anyone knows if jobs, and what type of jobs are available?
Largely the same types of jobs you’ll find in Canada… though if you don’t have a work visa your options will be much more limited. miguel
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I have a few questions as I ponder what the spring thaw will bring me when I take the cover off the pond. A long, LONG time ago, i saw a post about something like a glass "bridge" that extended out of the water, but allowed the fish to swim through it. I know that this is not a very good description, but that is all that I can really remember. If anyone knows what I am talking about, is it possible to either buy or make one that would extend between our two ponds (approx. 15") that the fish could swim through? ALSO, I am looking for something interesting to put into our ponds that would be peaceful with the other animals (fish and frogs) but at the same time, would be interesting. I was considering maybe adding a crawdad or two, or even a water dog. Will this work, has anyone had any success with it? Thanks in advance krudman
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What you’re looking for is the Aqua Span. Overall length is 36" and height is 15". Sells for $149.95US. I found it at www.thatpetplace.com — Bahnee in Craig, CO Attitoad is Everything! http://members.tripod.com/~bahnee
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that bridge thing…..i have seen it in one of my pond cataloges……but which one?….i think they had it for about $150….it actually looks pretty cool…..sorry i can’t remember which one though… I have a few questions as I ponder what the spring thaw will bring me when I take the cover off the pond. A long, LONG time ago, i saw a post about something like a glass "bridge" that extended out of the water, but allowed the fish to swim through it. I know that this is not a very good description, but that is all that I can really remember. If anyone knows what I am talking about, is it possible to either buy or make one that would extend between our two ponds (approx. 15") that the fish could swim
through?
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I have a few questions as I ponder what the spring thaw will bring me when I take the cover off the pond. A long, LONG time ago, i saw a post about something like a glass "bridge" that extended out of the water, but allowed the fish to swim through it.
I guessing maybe looking at these websites: www.petwhse.com or www.thatpetplace.com ALSO, I am looking for something interesting to put into our ponds that would be peaceful with the other animals (fish and frogs) but at the same time, would be interesting. I was considering maybe adding a crawdad or two, or even a water dog. Will this work, has anyone had any success with it?
Forget the crawdads they pick on sleeping fish. Waterdog, don’t know. See my ponds thru the seasons: http://home.earthlink.net/~alanjordan1/jjspond/index.html ~Keep ‘em Wet!~ ~jan~ Tri-Cities WA Zone 7a Remove Z to E-mail
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… A long, LONG time ago, i saw a post about something like a glass "bridge" that extended out of the water, but allowed the fish to swim through it
It was a plexiglass bridge that someone had seen in an ad in the back of a ponding mag. The general consensus was that it would work, but would grow a lot of algae, and be impossible to keep clean. ALSO, I am looking for something interesting to put into our ponds that would be peaceful with the other animals (fish and frogs) but at the same time, would be interesting. I was considering maybe adding a crawdad or two, or even a water dog. Will this work, has anyone had any success with it?
From what I’ve learned about water dogs (mud puppies around here), they would be fine. Not crawdads, though. They have been known to nip sleeping or dormant fish and eat them when that little strategy resulted in death. I have had stealth crawdads in my pond (didn’t know they were there) and they didn’t do that, but otheres have had it happen, and besides they don’t keep the detritus off the bottom very well. Ann in Houston
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I am leaving for Australia in a few weeks. Arriving in Sidney I am just wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to which hostel I should make reservations, or if I need to make reservations at? Also if anyone knows if jobs , and what type of jobs are available? I have a bus pass taking me along Melbourne, Adelaide, Alice Springs and back down the East Coast. What type of year is it dangerous to swim at the Northern East Coast? Is it dangerous at all beaches? And one more question… How early should I make reservations at a hostel for Christmas?
Response:
I am leaving for Australia in a few weeks. Arriving in Sidney I am just wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to which hostel I should make reservations, or if I need to make reservations at?
Reservations in October? I don’t think so. Sydney has an incredible amount of hostel capacity. Even at Christmas you’ll be fine as long as you show up by 8 or 9 in the morning and are willing to try a few places. Also if anyone knows if jobs, and what type of jobs are available?
Largely the same types of jobs you’ll find in Canada… though if you don’t have a work visa your options will be much more limited. miguel
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Hello all, We are new to the pond world and were hoping to get some information. We bought our first house last year; it’s on two acres out in the country and had been vacant for several years. After a lot of general maintenance, we are finally ready to get the cement pond going! Our first question has to do with size. The sides of our pond are sloped inward so steeply that the formula for calculating the gallons wouldn’t be acurate. It’s about ten feet in diameter and four feet deep at the deepest point, but the sides slope inward severely – i.e., it’s only a foot deep 12 inches in from the side. Any math geniuses out there? We would just like to have a general idea. Our second question is this: after filling it up the first time, we quickly realized that we didn’t like seeing the light concrete color at the bottom. We would like to know what we can use to make it black. A liner is not an option; it’s got a rock border already in place. And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. Any info would be helpful – we appreciate your time! best regards, melissa and gregg
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During the ponding season a pump should run 24/7. Once the water temp. reaches the mid-40s and is going to stay there for a while you can shut the pump off. More details will help – how many fish and what size are they, what kind of plants, a filter, waterfall or fountain? Where you live will determine much of your winter activities. And your zone. You can check out the third link in my sig. for lots of good websites. Welcome to rec.ponds!! K30A See my brother’s website http://WWW.30acreimaging.com/ see the labradors at http://www.daydreamergardens.com/2_level/articles/dog_how_to.htm K30A and friends’ pond information page http://hometown.aol.com/k30a/myhomepage/writing.html
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If you just want a rough idea of the volume, try this: find a container of five to ten gallons, or anything that you know the volume, and clock it to see how long it takes to fill it up w/your hose. Then, w/out turning off the hose, fill up the pond, timing it again. Then, just do the math, using the timed flow rate that you detemined with the small container. As for the color, there are several kinds of concrete paint available, and some of them will seal up any pores or cracks in the concrete at the same time. Just go to any full service hardware or paint store and ask what kind to use. Good luck, and hope this helped. — Easy ~ Pond is the newest distributor for Permalon pond liners. Stronger, lighter, and sized per order, Permalon is comparable to EPDM in price only. Contact me via email for more information. Before you buy.
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Melissa, the gallonage is easy to calculate but I’ll have to make some assumptions since you imply that the pond is circular (when you speak of diameter instead of length and width) and that the sides slope down at a 45 degree angle (one foot out equals one foot down). In this case that would mean that where it’s 4 feet deep, is only a 2 foot diameter circle at the center. So you have an upside-down truncated cone. If this is the case for a (very) rough estimate of gallons it’s pi r squared one-half h minus the truncated part, or 3.14 * 5*5*2.5* 7.5 gallons minus the truncated part gallons (only about 12 gallons), or about 1450 gallons. You can also use the flow method as another poster suggested, timing first how long it takes to fill 5 gallons using a 5 gallon bucket, then timing how long it takes to fill the pond. The ratio of the first time to the second time is the ratio of 5 gallons to your pond’s gallons. I wouldn’t get too hung up on exact gallons, it’s just a guide to help you plan for plants, fish, pump. You could be plus or minus 150 gallons or so and it wouldn’t make a great difference for most things. Tim
| Our first question has to do with size. The sides of our pond are sloped | inward so steeply that the formula for calculating the gallons wouldn’t be | acurate. It’s about ten feet in diameter and four feet deep at the deepest | point, but the sides slope inward severely – i.e., it’s only a foot deep 12 | inches in from the side. Any math geniuses out there? We would just like to | have a general idea.
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I agree with Mike on the painting. Algae will form on the sides and bottom in no time. It would cover your paint job anyways so why bother. })i({ Cindy })i({ If you think the grass is greener on the other side, get fertilizer!!! : ) Live, Love, Laugh!!! Don’t lose sight of lifes simple treasures, they cost nothing yet are priceless
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snip Our first question has to do with size. The sides of our pond are sloped inward so steeply that the formula for calculating the gallons wouldn’t be acurate. It’s about ten feet in diameter and four feet deep at the deepest point, but the sides slope inward severely – i.e., it’s only a foot deep 12 inches in from the side. Any math geniuses out there?
The way to find out the gallonage in this pond would be to measure it if you fill it again. Fill a container of known gallons and time it. Then fill the pond. The time x the gallons in the container is the ponds volume. Our second question is this: after filling it up the first time, we quickly realized that we didn’t like seeing the light concrete color at the bottom. We would like to know what we can use to make it black. A liner is not an option; it’s got a rock border already in place.
It won’t stay this color as algae will cover the sides after a short while, this is good. If you really don’t like the color, you can drain it and coat it with Thoroseal which can be dyed with standard concrete colors. And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day.
Filter pumps run 24/7. Feature pumps can be run when desired. FAQ at http://w3.one.net/~rzutt/faq.html snip
– hth – how no NEWS is good
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<snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day.
After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –
Response:
I can only recommend Helen Nash’s magazine, Water Gardening. I find that the vast majority of pond books have conflicting information. Most of the typical ones in the pond stores and garden centers are fine for getting the basics and looking at pictures to get ideas for building but I hardly would recommend them on a technical basis. Once you understand the general basics, most of of what you need to know is in a general physics or math book. I.e. pump flows, volume calculations, estimations of materials, etc.. Then ask questions here! You’ll STILL get lots of conflicting information!! *LOL* It does take some research to get it right. Or you learn by trial and error. Or course the whole point is the journey though! Getting to the destination just means you have pick a new destination for a new journey. Craig – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – <snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile?
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Hi, Any of Helen Nash’s books are a good source of information. I like her "Low-Maintenance Water Gardens" and "The Pond Doctor". Barron’s "Water Gardens" has much info for a little book. It even has section for building bridges. For plants Helen Nash’s "Aquatic Plants & Their Cultivation", American Horticultural Society "Ponds & Water Features". As you can see, there are many good books. These are just a few of my collection. I don’t know if this helps or just adds to the confusion. — Bonnie NJ http://www.users.fast.net/~maebe/index.htm – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – <snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile?
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Craig, I can understand your confusion… but Helen Nash is editor of Pond & Garden magazine. Watergardening is yet another good magazine….. but not as good as Pond & Garden (imo) ! Any of Helen Nash’s books are very good. She goes through the basics without clobbering one with technicalities. I have all her books but for newbies I like "Low Maintenance for Water Gardens"; "The Complete Pond Builder"; and "The Pond Doctor". Again, these not for the technically inclined, rather they are for the newbie. Nedra Zone 6+ Visit my ponds: www.geocities.com/Heartland/Pines/4836
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I can only recommend Helen Nash’s magazine, Water Gardening. I find that the vast majority of pond books have conflicting information. Most of the typical ones in the pond stores and garden centers are fine for getting the basics and looking at pictures to get ideas for building but I hardly would recommend them on a technical basis. Once you understand the general basics, most of of what you need to know is in a general physics or math book. I.e. pump flows, volume calculations, estimations of materials, etc.. Then ask questions here! You’ll STILL get lots of conflicting information!! *LOL* It does take some research to get it right. Or you learn by trial and error. Or course the whole point is the journey though! Getting to the destination just means you have pick a new destination for a new journey. Craig <snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile?
Response:
Watergardening is yet another good magazine….. but not as good as Pond & Garden (imo) !
I second that! Pond & Garden is the most beautiful and informative magazine I have ever read …. on any subject. Judy from California
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Whoops.. your correct.. see what happens you stay up late at night and try to rely on an aging brain? Craig – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Craig, I can understand your confusion… but Helen Nash is editor of Pond & Garden magazine. Watergardening is yet another good magazine….. but not as good as Pond & Garden (imo) ! Any of Helen Nash’s books are very good. She goes through the basics without clobbering one with technicalities. I have all her books but for newbies I like "Low Maintenance for Water Gardens"; "The Complete Pond Builder"; and "The Pond Doctor". Again, these not for the technically inclined, rather they are for the newbie. Nedra Zone 6+ Visit my ponds: www.geocities.com/Heartland/Pines/4836 I can only recommend Helen Nash’s magazine, Water Gardening. I find that the vast majority of pond books have conflicting information. Most of the typical ones in the pond stores and garden centers are fine for getting the basics and looking at pictures to get ideas for building but I hardly would recommend them on a technical basis. Once you understand the general basics, most of of what you need to know is in a general physics or math book. I.e. pump flows, volume calculations, estimations of materials, etc.. Then ask questions here! You’ll STILL get lots of conflicting information!! *LOL* It does take some research to get it right. Or you learn by trial and error. Or course the whole point is the journey though! Getting to the destination just means you have pick a new destination for a new journey. Craig <snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile?
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I just ordered Helen Nash’s Plants for Water Gardens book. I can’t wait to get it!!! This is the area I’m having the hardest time with trying to figure out what plants to get, sizes I need and hardy for my zone. This will make life so much simpler!!! Now I can pick my plants and surf the web to order them!!! : ) Then know exactly what to do come winter and lots of other stuff!!! })i({ Cindy })i({ If you think the grass is greener on the other side, get fertilizer!!! : ) Live, Love, Laugh!!! Don’t lose sight of lifes simple treasures, they cost nothing yet are priceless
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Thanks to all who responded. I’ve filed all the suggestions away, hoping to make use of them as winter reading material.
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Hello! I live in SW Michigan (Zone 5/6). I’m thinking about installing a pond and have a few questions. First of all, does this NG have a FAQ I can refer to? I’m new and I hate to ask the same old same old… Second: I have been reading stuff for about a year, and if all things were equal, I would use a high quality liner for my pond. However, I am now the busy owner of a 1 yr old standard Poodle (the big size) who loves being in water. I made a small pond out of an old wheelbarrow last summer when he a puppy and he was in it all the time. I am concerned that he will occasionally get in the new pond and poke his nice big toenails right through the lining. I would of course attempt to teach him not to get in but he is quite ornery! I guess I am interested in whether the lining material can withstand a 60 lb dog or not. (I’m guessing not!) A local discount pet supply business sells MacCourt pre-formed pools. They have a Lotus on sale that I am looking at. However, it (and all of MacCourts other models) is only 18" deep. From my reading this appears to be too shallow to keep fish over winter. The shop assures me that they will be OK. Are they just trying to get rid of this pond (it’s been sitting there all winter)? I am interested only in a few goldfish, nothing fancy. I don’t want to bring anything inside during the winter. Thanks. I appreciate any answers you have for me! Catherine
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Catherine, Check your local Feed stores for Stock Watering Tanks. They are real cheap and come in several shapes and sizes. They are easy to manuver as are galvanized metal. Metal needs to be painted inside with rubber or waterproofing paint to keep from leaching. They have a drain screw on the side bottom. Keep dirt from this area so can reach it. I have one sunk in ground to grade, that is 3′ deep and 6′ round. Small submersible fountain in bottom, two small lily baskets, flattish rocks around rim, bamboo beside. Makes a nice entry by front door. Sally
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Check your local Feed stores for Stock Watering Tanks. I have one sunk in ground to grade, that is 3′ deep and 6′ round. Small submersible fountain in bottom, two small lily baskets, flattish rocks around rim, bamboo beside. Makes a nice entry by front door. Sally
Thanks, I’ll be checking into this. Does being so round look weird or have you softened the edges with plants. My pond will be by our front entrance also. In that spot it won’t look totally natural but I don’t want it to look absolutely out of place or fake either. Catherine
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Thanks, I’ll be checking into this. Does being so round look weird or have you softened the edges with plants. My pond will be by our front entrance also. In that spot it won’t look totally natural but I don’t want it to look absolutely out of place or fake either.
Catherine, Symmetrically shaped ponds are called "formal". If you don’t try to naturalize it too much round doesn’t look odd at all. You can trim the edges with paving stones or bricks, etc. and soften the edges with plants that drape over and into the water as well as some that stand tall. A small fountain can complete the more formal look. "Formal" in this case doesn’t have to mean that you have to wear a ball gown to walk by it. It just means you MEANT for it to look that way. To me, the harder you TRY to make a symmetrical pond look natural the worse it looks. Go ahead and intend for it to be round by the type of surrounding plants and pavers you use! Good luck! — Signed, Kellie My Karma Ran Over My Dogma. It was a catastrophe! Now my dogma’s dead and my karma’s out of alignment. Get in "Knee Deep"! The Internet Pond Society http://w3.one.net/~rzutt/newsletter.html
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I have a few questions as I ponder what the spring thaw will bring me when I take the cover off the pond. A long, LONG time ago, i saw a post about something like a glass "bridge" that extended out of the water, but allowed the fish to swim through it. I know that this is not a very good description, but that is all that I can really remember. If anyone knows what I am talking about, is it possible to either buy or make one that would extend between our two ponds (approx. 15") that the fish could swim through? ALSO, I am looking for something interesting to put into our ponds that would be peaceful with the other animals (fish and frogs) but at the same time, would be interesting. I was considering maybe adding a crawdad or two, or even a water dog. Will this work, has anyone had any success with it? Thanks in advance krudman
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What you’re looking for is the Aqua Span. Overall length is 36" and height is 15". Sells for $149.95US. I found it at www.thatpetplace.com — Bahnee in Craig, CO Attitoad is Everything! http://members.tripod.com/~bahnee
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that bridge thing…..i have seen it in one of my pond cataloges……but which one?….i think they had it for about $150….it actually looks pretty cool…..sorry i can’t remember which one though… I have a few questions as I ponder what the spring thaw will bring me when I take the cover off the pond. A long, LONG time ago, i saw a post about something like a glass "bridge" that extended out of the water, but allowed the fish to swim through it. I know that this is not a very good description, but that is all that I can really remember. If anyone knows what I am talking about, is it possible to either buy or make one that would extend between our two ponds (approx. 15") that the fish could swim
through?
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I have a few questions as I ponder what the spring thaw will bring me when I take the cover off the pond. A long, LONG time ago, i saw a post about something like a glass "bridge" that extended out of the water, but allowed the fish to swim through it.
I guessing maybe looking at these websites: www.petwhse.com or www.thatpetplace.com ALSO, I am looking for something interesting to put into our ponds that would be peaceful with the other animals (fish and frogs) but at the same time, would be interesting. I was considering maybe adding a crawdad or two, or even a water dog. Will this work, has anyone had any success with it?
Forget the crawdads they pick on sleeping fish. Waterdog, don’t know. See my ponds thru the seasons: http://home.earthlink.net/~alanjordan1/jjspond/index.html ~Keep ‘em Wet!~ ~jan~ Tri-Cities WA Zone 7a Remove Z to E-mail
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… A long, LONG time ago, i saw a post about something like a glass "bridge" that extended out of the water, but allowed the fish to swim through it
It was a plexiglass bridge that someone had seen in an ad in the back of a ponding mag. The general consensus was that it would work, but would grow a lot of algae, and be impossible to keep clean. ALSO, I am looking for something interesting to put into our ponds that would be peaceful with the other animals (fish and frogs) but at the same time, would be interesting. I was considering maybe adding a crawdad or two, or even a water dog. Will this work, has anyone had any success with it?
From what I’ve learned about water dogs (mud puppies around here), they would be fine. Not crawdads, though. They have been known to nip sleeping or dormant fish and eat them when that little strategy resulted in death. I have had stealth crawdads in my pond (didn’t know they were there) and they didn’t do that, but otheres have had it happen, and besides they don’t keep the detritus off the bottom very well. Ann in Houston
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I am leaving for Australia in a few weeks. Arriving in Sidney I am just wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to which hostel I should make reservations, or if I need to make reservations at? Also if anyone knows if jobs , and what type of jobs are available? I have a bus pass taking me along Melbourne, Adelaide, Alice Springs and back down the East Coast. What type of year is it dangerous to swim at the Northern East Coast? Is it dangerous at all beaches? And one more question… How early should I make reservations at a hostel for Christmas?
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I am leaving for Australia in a few weeks. Arriving in Sidney I am just wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to which hostel I should make reservations, or if I need to make reservations at?
Reservations in October? I don’t think so. Sydney has an incredible amount of hostel capacity. Even at Christmas you’ll be fine as long as you show up by 8 or 9 in the morning and are willing to try a few places. Also if anyone knows if jobs, and what type of jobs are available?
Largely the same types of jobs you’ll find in Canada… though if you don’t have a work visa your options will be much more limited. miguel
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Hello all, We are new to the pond world and were hoping to get some information. We bought our first house last year; it’s on two acres out in the country and had been vacant for several years. After a lot of general maintenance, we are finally ready to get the cement pond going! Our first question has to do with size. The sides of our pond are sloped inward so steeply that the formula for calculating the gallons wouldn’t be acurate. It’s about ten feet in diameter and four feet deep at the deepest point, but the sides slope inward severely – i.e., it’s only a foot deep 12 inches in from the side. Any math geniuses out there? We would just like to have a general idea. Our second question is this: after filling it up the first time, we quickly realized that we didn’t like seeing the light concrete color at the bottom. We would like to know what we can use to make it black. A liner is not an option; it’s got a rock border already in place. And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. Any info would be helpful – we appreciate your time! best regards, melissa and gregg
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During the ponding season a pump should run 24/7. Once the water temp. reaches the mid-40s and is going to stay there for a while you can shut the pump off. More details will help – how many fish and what size are they, what kind of plants, a filter, waterfall or fountain? Where you live will determine much of your winter activities. And your zone. You can check out the third link in my sig. for lots of good websites. Welcome to rec.ponds!! K30A See my brother’s website http://WWW.30acreimaging.com/ see the labradors at http://www.daydreamergardens.com/2_level/articles/dog_how_to.htm K30A and friends’ pond information page http://hometown.aol.com/k30a/myhomepage/writing.html
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If you just want a rough idea of the volume, try this: find a container of five to ten gallons, or anything that you know the volume, and clock it to see how long it takes to fill it up w/your hose. Then, w/out turning off the hose, fill up the pond, timing it again. Then, just do the math, using the timed flow rate that you detemined with the small container. As for the color, there are several kinds of concrete paint available, and some of them will seal up any pores or cracks in the concrete at the same time. Just go to any full service hardware or paint store and ask what kind to use. Good luck, and hope this helped. — Easy ~ Pond is the newest distributor for Permalon pond liners. Stronger, lighter, and sized per order, Permalon is comparable to EPDM in price only. Contact me via email for more information. Before you buy.
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Melissa, the gallonage is easy to calculate but I’ll have to make some assumptions since you imply that the pond is circular (when you speak of diameter instead of length and width) and that the sides slope down at a 45 degree angle (one foot out equals one foot down). In this case that would mean that where it’s 4 feet deep, is only a 2 foot diameter circle at the center. So you have an upside-down truncated cone. If this is the case for a (very) rough estimate of gallons it’s pi r squared one-half h minus the truncated part, or 3.14 * 5*5*2.5* 7.5 gallons minus the truncated part gallons (only about 12 gallons), or about 1450 gallons. You can also use the flow method as another poster suggested, timing first how long it takes to fill 5 gallons using a 5 gallon bucket, then timing how long it takes to fill the pond. The ratio of the first time to the second time is the ratio of 5 gallons to your pond’s gallons. I wouldn’t get too hung up on exact gallons, it’s just a guide to help you plan for plants, fish, pump. You could be plus or minus 150 gallons or so and it wouldn’t make a great difference for most things. Tim
| Our first question has to do with size. The sides of our pond are sloped | inward so steeply that the formula for calculating the gallons wouldn’t be | acurate. It’s about ten feet in diameter and four feet deep at the deepest | point, but the sides slope inward severely – i.e., it’s only a foot deep 12 | inches in from the side. Any math geniuses out there? We would just like to | have a general idea.
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I agree with Mike on the painting. Algae will form on the sides and bottom in no time. It would cover your paint job anyways so why bother. })i({ Cindy })i({ If you think the grass is greener on the other side, get fertilizer!!! : ) Live, Love, Laugh!!! Don’t lose sight of lifes simple treasures, they cost nothing yet are priceless
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snip Our first question has to do with size. The sides of our pond are sloped inward so steeply that the formula for calculating the gallons wouldn’t be acurate. It’s about ten feet in diameter and four feet deep at the deepest point, but the sides slope inward severely – i.e., it’s only a foot deep 12 inches in from the side. Any math geniuses out there?
The way to find out the gallonage in this pond would be to measure it if you fill it again. Fill a container of known gallons and time it. Then fill the pond. The time x the gallons in the container is the ponds volume. Our second question is this: after filling it up the first time, we quickly realized that we didn’t like seeing the light concrete color at the bottom. We would like to know what we can use to make it black. A liner is not an option; it’s got a rock border already in place.
It won’t stay this color as algae will cover the sides after a short while, this is good. If you really don’t like the color, you can drain it and coat it with Thoroseal which can be dyed with standard concrete colors. And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day.
Filter pumps run 24/7. Feature pumps can be run when desired. FAQ at http://w3.one.net/~rzutt/faq.html snip
– hth – how no NEWS is good
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<snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day.
After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –
Response:
I can only recommend Helen Nash’s magazine, Water Gardening. I find that the vast majority of pond books have conflicting information. Most of the typical ones in the pond stores and garden centers are fine for getting the basics and looking at pictures to get ideas for building but I hardly would recommend them on a technical basis. Once you understand the general basics, most of of what you need to know is in a general physics or math book. I.e. pump flows, volume calculations, estimations of materials, etc.. Then ask questions here! You’ll STILL get lots of conflicting information!! *LOL* It does take some research to get it right. Or you learn by trial and error. Or course the whole point is the journey though! Getting to the destination just means you have pick a new destination for a new journey. Craig – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – <snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile?
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Hi, Any of Helen Nash’s books are a good source of information. I like her "Low-Maintenance Water Gardens" and "The Pond Doctor". Barron’s "Water Gardens" has much info for a little book. It even has section for building bridges. For plants Helen Nash’s "Aquatic Plants & Their Cultivation", American Horticultural Society "Ponds & Water Features". As you can see, there are many good books. These are just a few of my collection. I don’t know if this helps or just adds to the confusion. — Bonnie NJ http://www.users.fast.net/~maebe/index.htm – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – <snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile?
Response:
Craig, I can understand your confusion… but Helen Nash is editor of Pond & Garden magazine. Watergardening is yet another good magazine….. but not as good as Pond & Garden (imo) ! Any of Helen Nash’s books are very good. She goes through the basics without clobbering one with technicalities. I have all her books but for newbies I like "Low Maintenance for Water Gardens"; "The Complete Pond Builder"; and "The Pond Doctor". Again, these not for the technically inclined, rather they are for the newbie. Nedra Zone 6+ Visit my ponds: www.geocities.com/Heartland/Pines/4836
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I can only recommend Helen Nash’s magazine, Water Gardening. I find that the vast majority of pond books have conflicting information. Most of the typical ones in the pond stores and garden centers are fine for getting the basics and looking at pictures to get ideas for building but I hardly would recommend them on a technical basis. Once you understand the general basics, most of of what you need to know is in a general physics or math book. I.e. pump flows, volume calculations, estimations of materials, etc.. Then ask questions here! You’ll STILL get lots of conflicting information!! *LOL* It does take some research to get it right. Or you learn by trial and error. Or course the whole point is the journey though! Getting to the destination just means you have pick a new destination for a new journey. Craig <snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile?
Response:
Watergardening is yet another good magazine….. but not as good as Pond & Garden (imo) !
I second that! Pond & Garden is the most beautiful and informative magazine I have ever read …. on any subject. Judy from California
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Whoops.. your correct.. see what happens you stay up late at night and try to rely on an aging brain? Craig – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Craig, I can understand your confusion… but Helen Nash is editor of Pond & Garden magazine. Watergardening is yet another good magazine….. but not as good as Pond & Garden (imo) ! Any of Helen Nash’s books are very good. She goes through the basics without clobbering one with technicalities. I have all her books but for newbies I like "Low Maintenance for Water Gardens"; "The Complete Pond Builder"; and "The Pond Doctor". Again, these not for the technically inclined, rather they are for the newbie. Nedra Zone 6+ Visit my ponds: www.geocities.com/Heartland/Pines/4836 I can only recommend Helen Nash’s magazine, Water Gardening. I find that the vast majority of pond books have conflicting information. Most of the typical ones in the pond stores and garden centers are fine for getting the basics and looking at pictures to get ideas for building but I hardly would recommend them on a technical basis. Once you understand the general basics, most of of what you need to know is in a general physics or math book. I.e. pump flows, volume calculations, estimations of materials, etc.. Then ask questions here! You’ll STILL get lots of conflicting information!! *LOL* It does take some research to get it right. Or you learn by trial and error. Or course the whole point is the journey though! Getting to the destination just means you have pick a new destination for a new journey. Craig <snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile?
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I just ordered Helen Nash’s Plants for Water Gardens book. I can’t wait to get it!!! This is the area I’m having the hardest time with trying to figure out what plants to get, sizes I need and hardy for my zone. This will make life so much simpler!!! Now I can pick my plants and surf the web to order them!!! : ) Then know exactly what to do come winter and lots of other stuff!!! })i({ Cindy })i({ If you think the grass is greener on the other side, get fertilizer!!! : ) Live, Love, Laugh!!! Don’t lose sight of lifes simple treasures, they cost nothing yet are priceless
Response:
Thanks to all who responded. I’ve filed all the suggestions away, hoping to make use of them as winter reading material.
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Hello! I live in SW Michigan (Zone 5/6). I’m thinking about installing a pond and have a few questions. First of all, does this NG have a FAQ I can refer to? I’m new and I hate to ask the same old same old… Second: I have been reading stuff for about a year, and if all things were equal, I would use a high quality liner for my pond. However, I am now the busy owner of a 1 yr old standard Poodle (the big size) who loves being in water. I made a small pond out of an old wheelbarrow last summer when he a puppy and he was in it all the time. I am concerned that he will occasionally get in the new pond and poke his nice big toenails right through the lining. I would of course attempt to teach him not to get in but he is quite ornery! I guess I am interested in whether the lining material can withstand a 60 lb dog or not. (I’m guessing not!) A local discount pet supply business sells MacCourt pre-formed pools. They have a Lotus on sale that I am looking at. However, it (and all of MacCourts other models) is only 18" deep. From my reading this appears to be too shallow to keep fish over winter. The shop assures me that they will be OK. Are they just trying to get rid of this pond (it’s been sitting there all winter)? I am interested only in a few goldfish, nothing fancy. I don’t want to bring anything inside during the winter. Thanks. I appreciate any answers you have for me! Catherine
Response:
Catherine, Check your local Feed stores for Stock Watering Tanks. They are real cheap and come in several shapes and sizes. They are easy to manuver as are galvanized metal. Metal needs to be painted inside with rubber or waterproofing paint to keep from leaching. They have a drain screw on the side bottom. Keep dirt from this area so can reach it. I have one sunk in ground to grade, that is 3′ deep and 6′ round. Small submersible fountain in bottom, two small lily baskets, flattish rocks around rim, bamboo beside. Makes a nice entry by front door. Sally
Response:
Check your local Feed stores for Stock Watering Tanks. I have one sunk in ground to grade, that is 3′ deep and 6′ round. Small submersible fountain in bottom, two small lily baskets, flattish rocks around rim, bamboo beside. Makes a nice entry by front door. Sally
Thanks, I’ll be checking into this. Does being so round look weird or have you softened the edges with plants. My pond will be by our front entrance also. In that spot it won’t look totally natural but I don’t want it to look absolutely out of place or fake either. Catherine
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Thanks, I’ll be checking into this. Does being so round look weird or have you softened the edges with plants. My pond will be by our front entrance also. In that spot it won’t look totally natural but I don’t want it to look absolutely out of place or fake either.
Catherine, Symmetrically shaped ponds are called "formal". If you don’t try to naturalize it too much round doesn’t look odd at all. You can trim the edges with paving stones or bricks, etc. and soften the edges with plants that drape over and into the water as well as some that stand tall. A small fountain can complete the more formal look. "Formal" in this case doesn’t have to mean that you have to wear a ball gown to walk by it. It just means you MEANT for it to look that way. To me, the harder you TRY to make a symmetrical pond look natural the worse it looks. Go ahead and intend for it to be round by the type of surrounding plants and pavers you use! Good luck! — Signed, Kellie My Karma Ran Over My Dogma. It was a catastrophe! Now my dogma’s dead and my karma’s out of alignment. Get in "Knee Deep"! The Internet Pond Society http://w3.one.net/~rzutt/newsletter.html
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I have a few questions as I ponder what the spring thaw will bring me when I take the cover off the pond. A long, LONG time ago, i saw a post about something like a glass "bridge" that extended out of the water, but allowed the fish to swim through it. I know that this is not a very good description, but that is all that I can really remember. If anyone knows what I am talking about, is it possible to either buy or make one that would extend between our two ponds (approx. 15") that the fish could swim through? ALSO, I am looking for something interesting to put into our ponds that would be peaceful with the other animals (fish and frogs) but at the same time, would be interesting. I was considering maybe adding a crawdad or two, or even a water dog. Will this work, has anyone had any success with it? Thanks in advance krudman
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What you’re looking for is the Aqua Span. Overall length is 36" and height is 15". Sells for $149.95US. I found it at www.thatpetplace.com — Bahnee in Craig, CO Attitoad is Everything! http://members.tripod.com/~bahnee
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that bridge thing…..i have seen it in one of my pond cataloges……but which one?….i think they had it for about $150….it actually looks pretty cool…..sorry i can’t remember which one though… I have a few questions as I ponder what the spring thaw will bring me when I take the cover off the pond. A long, LONG time ago, i saw a post about something like a glass "bridge" that extended out of the water, but allowed the fish to swim through it. I know that this is not a very good description, but that is all that I can really remember. If anyone knows what I am talking about, is it possible to either buy or make one that would extend between our two ponds (approx. 15") that the fish could swim
through?
Response:
I have a few questions as I ponder what the spring thaw will bring me when I take the cover off the pond. A long, LONG time ago, i saw a post about something like a glass "bridge" that extended out of the water, but allowed the fish to swim through it.
I guessing maybe looking at these websites: www.petwhse.com or www.thatpetplace.com ALSO, I am looking for something interesting to put into our ponds that would be peaceful with the other animals (fish and frogs) but at the same time, would be interesting. I was considering maybe adding a crawdad or two, or even a water dog. Will this work, has anyone had any success with it?
Forget the crawdads they pick on sleeping fish. Waterdog, don’t know. See my ponds thru the seasons: http://home.earthlink.net/~alanjordan1/jjspond/index.html ~Keep ‘em Wet!~ ~jan~ Tri-Cities WA Zone 7a Remove Z to E-mail
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… A long, LONG time ago, i saw a post about something like a glass "bridge" that extended out of the water, but allowed the fish to swim through it
It was a plexiglass bridge that someone had seen in an ad in the back of a ponding mag. The general consensus was that it would work, but would grow a lot of algae, and be impossible to keep clean. ALSO, I am looking for something interesting to put into our ponds that would be peaceful with the other animals (fish and frogs) but at the same time, would be interesting. I was considering maybe adding a crawdad or two, or even a water dog. Will this work, has anyone had any success with it?
From what I’ve learned about water dogs (mud puppies around here), they would be fine. Not crawdads, though. They have been known to nip sleeping or dormant fish and eat them when that little strategy resulted in death. I have had stealth crawdads in my pond (didn’t know they were there) and they didn’t do that, but otheres have had it happen, and besides they don’t keep the detritus off the bottom very well. Ann in Houston
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I am leaving for Australia in a few weeks. Arriving in Sidney I am just wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to which hostel I should make reservations, or if I need to make reservations at? Also if anyone knows if jobs , and what type of jobs are available? I have a bus pass taking me along Melbourne, Adelaide, Alice Springs and back down the East Coast. What type of year is it dangerous to swim at the Northern East Coast? Is it dangerous at all beaches? And one more question… How early should I make reservations at a hostel for Christmas?
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I am leaving for Australia in a few weeks. Arriving in Sidney I am just wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to which hostel I should make reservations, or if I need to make reservations at?
Reservations in October? I don’t think so. Sydney has an incredible amount of hostel capacity. Even at Christmas you’ll be fine as long as you show up by 8 or 9 in the morning and are willing to try a few places. Also if anyone knows if jobs, and what type of jobs are available?
Largely the same types of jobs you’ll find in Canada… though if you don’t have a work visa your options will be much more limited. miguel
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Hello all, We are new to the pond world and were hoping to get some information. We bought our first house last year; it’s on two acres out in the country and had been vacant for several years. After a lot of general maintenance, we are finally ready to get the cement pond going! Our first question has to do with size. The sides of our pond are sloped inward so steeply that the formula for calculating the gallons wouldn’t be acurate. It’s about ten feet in diameter and four feet deep at the deepest point, but the sides slope inward severely – i.e., it’s only a foot deep 12 inches in from the side. Any math geniuses out there? We would just like to have a general idea. Our second question is this: after filling it up the first time, we quickly realized that we didn’t like seeing the light concrete color at the bottom. We would like to know what we can use to make it black. A liner is not an option; it’s got a rock border already in place. And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. Any info would be helpful – we appreciate your time! best regards, melissa and gregg
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During the ponding season a pump should run 24/7. Once the water temp. reaches the mid-40s and is going to stay there for a while you can shut the pump off. More details will help – how many fish and what size are they, what kind of plants, a filter, waterfall or fountain? Where you live will determine much of your winter activities. And your zone. You can check out the third link in my sig. for lots of good websites. Welcome to rec.ponds!! K30A See my brother’s website http://WWW.30acreimaging.com/ see the labradors at http://www.daydreamergardens.com/2_level/articles/dog_how_to.htm K30A and friends’ pond information page http://hometown.aol.com/k30a/myhomepage/writing.html
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If you just want a rough idea of the volume, try this: find a container of five to ten gallons, or anything that you know the volume, and clock it to see how long it takes to fill it up w/your hose. Then, w/out turning off the hose, fill up the pond, timing it again. Then, just do the math, using the timed flow rate that you detemined with the small container. As for the color, there are several kinds of concrete paint available, and some of them will seal up any pores or cracks in the concrete at the same time. Just go to any full service hardware or paint store and ask what kind to use. Good luck, and hope this helped. — Easy ~ Pond is the newest distributor for Permalon pond liners. Stronger, lighter, and sized per order, Permalon is comparable to EPDM in price only. Contact me via email for more information. Before you buy.
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Melissa, the gallonage is easy to calculate but I’ll have to make some assumptions since you imply that the pond is circular (when you speak of diameter instead of length and width) and that the sides slope down at a 45 degree angle (one foot out equals one foot down). In this case that would mean that where it’s 4 feet deep, is only a 2 foot diameter circle at the center. So you have an upside-down truncated cone. If this is the case for a (very) rough estimate of gallons it’s pi r squared one-half h minus the truncated part, or 3.14 * 5*5*2.5* 7.5 gallons minus the truncated part gallons (only about 12 gallons), or about 1450 gallons. You can also use the flow method as another poster suggested, timing first how long it takes to fill 5 gallons using a 5 gallon bucket, then timing how long it takes to fill the pond. The ratio of the first time to the second time is the ratio of 5 gallons to your pond’s gallons. I wouldn’t get too hung up on exact gallons, it’s just a guide to help you plan for plants, fish, pump. You could be plus or minus 150 gallons or so and it wouldn’t make a great difference for most things. Tim
| Our first question has to do with size. The sides of our pond are sloped | inward so steeply that the formula for calculating the gallons wouldn’t be | acurate. It’s about ten feet in diameter and four feet deep at the deepest | point, but the sides slope inward severely – i.e., it’s only a foot deep 12 | inches in from the side. Any math geniuses out there? We would just like to | have a general idea.
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I agree with Mike on the painting. Algae will form on the sides and bottom in no time. It would cover your paint job anyways so why bother. })i({ Cindy })i({ If you think the grass is greener on the other side, get fertilizer!!! : ) Live, Love, Laugh!!! Don’t lose sight of lifes simple treasures, they cost nothing yet are priceless
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snip Our first question has to do with size. The sides of our pond are sloped inward so steeply that the formula for calculating the gallons wouldn’t be acurate. It’s about ten feet in diameter and four feet deep at the deepest point, but the sides slope inward severely – i.e., it’s only a foot deep 12 inches in from the side. Any math geniuses out there?
The way to find out the gallonage in this pond would be to measure it if you fill it again. Fill a container of known gallons and time it. Then fill the pond. The time x the gallons in the container is the ponds volume. Our second question is this: after filling it up the first time, we quickly realized that we didn’t like seeing the light concrete color at the bottom. We would like to know what we can use to make it black. A liner is not an option; it’s got a rock border already in place.
It won’t stay this color as algae will cover the sides after a short while, this is good. If you really don’t like the color, you can drain it and coat it with Thoroseal which can be dyed with standard concrete colors. And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day.
Filter pumps run 24/7. Feature pumps can be run when desired. FAQ at http://w3.one.net/~rzutt/faq.html snip
– hth – how no NEWS is good
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<snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day.
After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –
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I can only recommend Helen Nash’s magazine, Water Gardening. I find that the vast majority of pond books have conflicting information. Most of the typical ones in the pond stores and garden centers are fine for getting the basics and looking at pictures to get ideas for building but I hardly would recommend them on a technical basis. Once you understand the general basics, most of of what you need to know is in a general physics or math book. I.e. pump flows, volume calculations, estimations of materials, etc.. Then ask questions here! You’ll STILL get lots of conflicting information!! *LOL* It does take some research to get it right. Or you learn by trial and error. Or course the whole point is the journey though! Getting to the destination just means you have pick a new destination for a new journey. Craig – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – <snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile?
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Hi, Any of Helen Nash’s books are a good source of information. I like her "Low-Maintenance Water Gardens" and "The Pond Doctor". Barron’s "Water Gardens" has much info for a little book. It even has section for building bridges. For plants Helen Nash’s "Aquatic Plants & Their Cultivation", American Horticultural Society "Ponds & Water Features". As you can see, there are many good books. These are just a few of my collection. I don’t know if this helps or just adds to the confusion. — Bonnie NJ http://www.users.fast.net/~maebe/index.htm – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – <snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile?
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Craig, I can understand your confusion… but Helen Nash is editor of Pond & Garden magazine. Watergardening is yet another good magazine….. but not as good as Pond & Garden (imo) ! Any of Helen Nash’s books are very good. She goes through the basics without clobbering one with technicalities. I have all her books but for newbies I like "Low Maintenance for Water Gardens"; "The Complete Pond Builder"; and "The Pond Doctor". Again, these not for the technically inclined, rather they are for the newbie. Nedra Zone 6+ Visit my ponds: www.geocities.com/Heartland/Pines/4836
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I can only recommend Helen Nash’s magazine, Water Gardening. I find that the vast majority of pond books have conflicting information. Most of the typical ones in the pond stores and garden centers are fine for getting the basics and looking at pictures to get ideas for building but I hardly would recommend them on a technical basis. Once you understand the general basics, most of of what you need to know is in a general physics or math book. I.e. pump flows, volume calculations, estimations of materials, etc.. Then ask questions here! You’ll STILL get lots of conflicting information!! *LOL* It does take some research to get it right. Or you learn by trial and error. Or course the whole point is the journey though! Getting to the destination just means you have pick a new destination for a new journey. Craig <snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile?
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Watergardening is yet another good magazine….. but not as good as Pond & Garden (imo) !
I second that! Pond & Garden is the most beautiful and informative magazine I have ever read …. on any subject. Judy from California
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Whoops.. your correct.. see what happens you stay up late at night and try to rely on an aging brain? Craig – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Craig, I can understand your confusion… but Helen Nash is editor of Pond & Garden magazine. Watergardening is yet another good magazine….. but not as good as Pond & Garden (imo) ! Any of Helen Nash’s books are very good. She goes through the basics without clobbering one with technicalities. I have all her books but for newbies I like "Low Maintenance for Water Gardens"; "The Complete Pond Builder"; and "The Pond Doctor". Again, these not for the technically inclined, rather they are for the newbie. Nedra Zone 6+ Visit my ponds: www.geocities.com/Heartland/Pines/4836 I can only recommend Helen Nash’s magazine, Water Gardening. I find that the vast majority of pond books have conflicting information. Most of the typical ones in the pond stores and garden centers are fine for getting the basics and looking at pictures to get ideas for building but I hardly would recommend them on a technical basis. Once you understand the general basics, most of of what you need to know is in a general physics or math book. I.e. pump flows, volume calculations, estimations of materials, etc.. Then ask questions here! You’ll STILL get lots of conflicting information!! *LOL* It does take some research to get it right. Or you learn by trial and error. Or course the whole point is the journey though! Getting to the destination just means you have pick a new destination for a new journey. Craig <snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile?
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I just ordered Helen Nash’s Plants for Water Gardens book. I can’t wait to get it!!! This is the area I’m having the hardest time with trying to figure out what plants to get, sizes I need and hardy for my zone. This will make life so much simpler!!! Now I can pick my plants and surf the web to order them!!! : ) Then know exactly what to do come winter and lots of other stuff!!! })i({ Cindy })i({ If you think the grass is greener on the other side, get fertilizer!!! : ) Live, Love, Laugh!!! Don’t lose sight of lifes simple treasures, they cost nothing yet are priceless
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Thanks to all who responded. I’ve filed all the suggestions away, hoping to make use of them as winter reading material.
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Hello! I live in SW Michigan (Zone 5/6). I’m thinking about installing a pond and have a few questions. First of all, does this NG have a FAQ I can refer to? I’m new and I hate to ask the same old same old… Second: I have been reading stuff for about a year, and if all things were equal, I would use a high quality liner for my pond. However, I am now the busy owner of a 1 yr old standard Poodle (the big size) who loves being in water. I made a small pond out of an old wheelbarrow last summer when he a puppy and he was in it all the time. I am concerned that he will occasionally get in the new pond and poke his nice big toenails right through the lining. I would of course attempt to teach him not to get in but he is quite ornery! I guess I am interested in whether the lining material can withstand a 60 lb dog or not. (I’m guessing not!) A local discount pet supply business sells MacCourt pre-formed pools. They have a Lotus on sale that I am looking at. However, it (and all of MacCourts other models) is only 18" deep. From my reading this appears to be too shallow to keep fish over winter. The shop assures me that they will be OK. Are they just trying to get rid of this pond (it’s been sitting there all winter)? I am interested only in a few goldfish, nothing fancy. I don’t want to bring anything inside during the winter. Thanks. I appreciate any answers you have for me! Catherine
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Catherine, Check your local Feed stores for Stock Watering Tanks. They are real cheap and come in several shapes and sizes. They are easy to manuver as are galvanized metal. Metal needs to be painted inside with rubber or waterproofing paint to keep from leaching. They have a drain screw on the side bottom. Keep dirt from this area so can reach it. I have one sunk in ground to grade, that is 3′ deep and 6′ round. Small submersible fountain in bottom, two small lily baskets, flattish rocks around rim, bamboo beside. Makes a nice entry by front door. Sally
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Check your local Feed stores for Stock Watering Tanks. I have one sunk in ground to grade, that is 3′ deep and 6′ round. Small submersible fountain in bottom, two small lily baskets, flattish rocks around rim, bamboo beside. Makes a nice entry by front door. Sally
Thanks, I’ll be checking into this. Does being so round look weird or have you softened the edges with plants. My pond will be by our front entrance also. In that spot it won’t look totally natural but I don’t want it to look absolutely out of place or fake either. Catherine
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Thanks, I’ll be checking into this. Does being so round look weird or have you softened the edges with plants. My pond will be by our front entrance also. In that spot it won’t look totally natural but I don’t want it to look absolutely out of place or fake either.
Catherine, Symmetrically shaped ponds are called "formal". If you don’t try to naturalize it too much round doesn’t look odd at all. You can trim the edges with paving stones or bricks, etc. and soften the edges with plants that drape over and into the water as well as some that stand tall. A small fountain can complete the more formal look. "Formal" in this case doesn’t have to mean that you have to wear a ball gown to walk by it. It just means you MEANT for it to look that way. To me, the harder you TRY to make a symmetrical pond look natural the worse it looks. Go ahead and intend for it to be round by the type of surrounding plants and pavers you use! Good luck! — Signed, Kellie My Karma Ran Over My Dogma. It was a catastrophe! Now my dogma’s dead and my karma’s out of alignment. Get in "Knee Deep"! The Internet Pond Society http://w3.one.net/~rzutt/newsletter.html
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I have a few questions as I ponder what the spring thaw will bring me when I take the cover off the pond. A long, LONG time ago, i saw a post about something like a glass "bridge" that extended out of the water, but allowed the fish to swim through it. I know that this is not a very good description, but that is all that I can really remember. If anyone knows what I am talking about, is it possible to either buy or make one that would extend between our two ponds (approx. 15") that the fish could swim through? ALSO, I am looking for something interesting to put into our ponds that would be peaceful with the other animals (fish and frogs) but at the same time, would be interesting. I was considering maybe adding a crawdad or two, or even a water dog. Will this work, has anyone had any success with it? Thanks in advance krudman
Response:
What you’re looking for is the Aqua Span. Overall length is 36" and height is 15". Sells for $149.95US. I found it at www.thatpetplace.com — Bahnee in Craig, CO Attitoad is Everything! http://members.tripod.com/~bahnee
Response:
that bridge thing…..i have seen it in one of my pond cataloges……but which one?….i think they had it for about $150….it actually looks pretty cool…..sorry i can’t remember which one though… I have a few questions as I ponder what the spring thaw will bring me when I take the cover off the pond. A long, LONG time ago, i saw a post about something like a glass "bridge" that extended out of the water, but allowed the fish to swim through it. I know that this is not a very good description, but that is all that I can really remember. If anyone knows what I am talking about, is it possible to either buy or make one that would extend between our two ponds (approx. 15") that the fish could swim
through?
Response:
I have a few questions as I ponder what the spring thaw will bring me when I take the cover off the pond. A long, LONG time ago, i saw a post about something like a glass "bridge" that extended out of the water, but allowed the fish to swim through it.
I guessing maybe looking at these websites: www.petwhse.com or www.thatpetplace.com ALSO, I am looking for something interesting to put into our ponds that would be peaceful with the other animals (fish and frogs) but at the same time, would be interesting. I was considering maybe adding a crawdad or two, or even a water dog. Will this work, has anyone had any success with it?
Forget the crawdads they pick on sleeping fish. Waterdog, don’t know. See my ponds thru the seasons: http://home.earthlink.net/~alanjordan1/jjspond/index.html ~Keep ‘em Wet!~ ~jan~ Tri-Cities WA Zone 7a Remove Z to E-mail
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… A long, LONG time ago, i saw a post about something like a glass "bridge" that extended out of the water, but allowed the fish to swim through it
It was a plexiglass bridge that someone had seen in an ad in the back of a ponding mag. The general consensus was that it would work, but would grow a lot of algae, and be impossible to keep clean. ALSO, I am looking for something interesting to put into our ponds that would be peaceful with the other animals (fish and frogs) but at the same time, would be interesting. I was considering maybe adding a crawdad or two, or even a water dog. Will this work, has anyone had any success with it?
From what I’ve learned about water dogs (mud puppies around here), they would be fine. Not crawdads, though. They have been known to nip sleeping or dormant fish and eat them when that little strategy resulted in death. I have had stealth crawdads in my pond (didn’t know they were there) and they didn’t do that, but otheres have had it happen, and besides they don’t keep the detritus off the bottom very well. Ann in Houston
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I am leaving for Australia in a few weeks. Arriving in Sidney I am just wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to which hostel I should make reservations, or if I need to make reservations at? Also if anyone knows if jobs , and what type of jobs are available? I have a bus pass taking me along Melbourne, Adelaide, Alice Springs and back down the East Coast. What type of year is it dangerous to swim at the Northern East Coast? Is it dangerous at all beaches? And one more question… How early should I make reservations at a hostel for Christmas?
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I am leaving for Australia in a few weeks. Arriving in Sidney I am just wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to which hostel I should make reservations, or if I need to make reservations at?
Reservations in October? I don’t think so. Sydney has an incredible amount of hostel capacity. Even at Christmas you’ll be fine as long as you show up by 8 or 9 in the morning and are willing to try a few places. Also if anyone knows if jobs, and what type of jobs are available?
Largely the same types of jobs you’ll find in Canada… though if you don’t have a work visa your options will be much more limited. miguel
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Hello all, We are new to the pond world and were hoping to get some information. We bought our first house last year; it’s on two acres out in the country and had been vacant for several years. After a lot of general maintenance, we are finally ready to get the cement pond going! Our first question has to do with size. The sides of our pond are sloped inward so steeply that the formula for calculating the gallons wouldn’t be acurate. It’s about ten feet in diameter and four feet deep at the deepest point, but the sides slope inward severely – i.e., it’s only a foot deep 12 inches in from the side. Any math geniuses out there? We would just like to have a general idea. Our second question is this: after filling it up the first time, we quickly realized that we didn’t like seeing the light concrete color at the bottom. We would like to know what we can use to make it black. A liner is not an option; it’s got a rock border already in place. And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. Any info would be helpful – we appreciate your time! best regards, melissa and gregg
Response:
During the ponding season a pump should run 24/7. Once the water temp. reaches the mid-40s and is going to stay there for a while you can shut the pump off. More details will help – how many fish and what size are they, what kind of plants, a filter, waterfall or fountain? Where you live will determine much of your winter activities. And your zone. You can check out the third link in my sig. for lots of good websites. Welcome to rec.ponds!! K30A See my brother’s website http://WWW.30acreimaging.com/ see the labradors at http://www.daydreamergardens.com/2_level/articles/dog_how_to.htm K30A and friends’ pond information page http://hometown.aol.com/k30a/myhomepage/writing.html
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If you just want a rough idea of the volume, try this: find a container of five to ten gallons, or anything that you know the volume, and clock it to see how long it takes to fill it up w/your hose. Then, w/out turning off the hose, fill up the pond, timing it again. Then, just do the math, using the timed flow rate that you detemined with the small container. As for the color, there are several kinds of concrete paint available, and some of them will seal up any pores or cracks in the concrete at the same time. Just go to any full service hardware or paint store and ask what kind to use. Good luck, and hope this helped. — Easy ~ Pond is the newest distributor for Permalon pond liners. Stronger, lighter, and sized per order, Permalon is comparable to EPDM in price only. Contact me via email for more information. Before you buy.
Response:
Melissa, the gallonage is easy to calculate but I’ll have to make some assumptions since you imply that the pond is circular (when you speak of diameter instead of length and width) and that the sides slope down at a 45 degree angle (one foot out equals one foot down). In this case that would mean that where it’s 4 feet deep, is only a 2 foot diameter circle at the center. So you have an upside-down truncated cone. If this is the case for a (very) rough estimate of gallons it’s pi r squared one-half h minus the truncated part, or 3.14 * 5*5*2.5* 7.5 gallons minus the truncated part gallons (only about 12 gallons), or about 1450 gallons. You can also use the flow method as another poster suggested, timing first how long it takes to fill 5 gallons using a 5 gallon bucket, then timing how long it takes to fill the pond. The ratio of the first time to the second time is the ratio of 5 gallons to your pond’s gallons. I wouldn’t get too hung up on exact gallons, it’s just a guide to help you plan for plants, fish, pump. You could be plus or minus 150 gallons or so and it wouldn’t make a great difference for most things. Tim
| Our first question has to do with size. The sides of our pond are sloped | inward so steeply that the formula for calculating the gallons wouldn’t be | acurate. It’s about ten feet in diameter and four feet deep at the deepest | point, but the sides slope inward severely – i.e., it’s only a foot deep 12 | inches in from the side. Any math geniuses out there? We would just like to | have a general idea.
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I agree with Mike on the painting. Algae will form on the sides and bottom in no time. It would cover your paint job anyways so why bother. })i({ Cindy })i({ If you think the grass is greener on the other side, get fertilizer!!! : ) Live, Love, Laugh!!! Don’t lose sight of lifes simple treasures, they cost nothing yet are priceless
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snip Our first question has to do with size. The sides of our pond are sloped inward so steeply that the formula for calculating the gallons wouldn’t be acurate. It’s about ten feet in diameter and four feet deep at the deepest point, but the sides slope inward severely – i.e., it’s only a foot deep 12 inches in from the side. Any math geniuses out there?
The way to find out the gallonage in this pond would be to measure it if you fill it again. Fill a container of known gallons and time it. Then fill the pond. The time x the gallons in the container is the ponds volume. Our second question is this: after filling it up the first time, we quickly realized that we didn’t like seeing the light concrete color at the bottom. We would like to know what we can use to make it black. A liner is not an option; it’s got a rock border already in place.
It won’t stay this color as algae will cover the sides after a short while, this is good. If you really don’t like the color, you can drain it and coat it with Thoroseal which can be dyed with standard concrete colors. And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day.
Filter pumps run 24/7. Feature pumps can be run when desired. FAQ at http://w3.one.net/~rzutt/faq.html snip
– hth – how no NEWS is good
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<snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day.
After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –
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I can only recommend Helen Nash’s magazine, Water Gardening. I find that the vast majority of pond books have conflicting information. Most of the typical ones in the pond stores and garden centers are fine for getting the basics and looking at pictures to get ideas for building but I hardly would recommend them on a technical basis. Once you understand the general basics, most of of what you need to know is in a general physics or math book. I.e. pump flows, volume calculations, estimations of materials, etc.. Then ask questions here! You’ll STILL get lots of conflicting information!! *LOL* It does take some research to get it right. Or you learn by trial and error. Or course the whole point is the journey though! Getting to the destination just means you have pick a new destination for a new journey. Craig – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – <snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile?
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Hi, Any of Helen Nash’s books are a good source of information. I like her "Low-Maintenance Water Gardens" and "The Pond Doctor". Barron’s "Water Gardens" has much info for a little book. It even has section for building bridges. For plants Helen Nash’s "Aquatic Plants & Their Cultivation", American Horticultural Society "Ponds & Water Features". As you can see, there are many good books. These are just a few of my collection. I don’t know if this helps or just adds to the confusion. — Bonnie NJ http://www.users.fast.net/~maebe/index.htm – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – <snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile?
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Craig, I can understand your confusion… but Helen Nash is editor of Pond & Garden magazine. Watergardening is yet another good magazine….. but not as good as Pond & Garden (imo) ! Any of Helen Nash’s books are very good. She goes through the basics without clobbering one with technicalities. I have all her books but for newbies I like "Low Maintenance for Water Gardens"; "The Complete Pond Builder"; and "The Pond Doctor". Again, these not for the technically inclined, rather they are for the newbie. Nedra Zone 6+ Visit my ponds: www.geocities.com/Heartland/Pines/4836
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I can only recommend Helen Nash’s magazine, Water Gardening. I find that the vast majority of pond books have conflicting information. Most of the typical ones in the pond stores and garden centers are fine for getting the basics and looking at pictures to get ideas for building but I hardly would recommend them on a technical basis. Once you understand the general basics, most of of what you need to know is in a general physics or math book. I.e. pump flows, volume calculations, estimations of materials, etc.. Then ask questions here! You’ll STILL get lots of conflicting information!! *LOL* It does take some research to get it right. Or you learn by trial and error. Or course the whole point is the journey though! Getting to the destination just means you have pick a new destination for a new journey. Craig <snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile?
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Watergardening is yet another good magazine….. but not as good as Pond & Garden (imo) !
I second that! Pond & Garden is the most beautiful and informative magazine I have ever read …. on any subject. Judy from California
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Whoops.. your correct.. see what happens you stay up late at night and try to rely on an aging brain? Craig – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Craig, I can understand your confusion… but Helen Nash is editor of Pond & Garden magazine. Watergardening is yet another good magazine….. but not as good as Pond & Garden (imo) ! Any of Helen Nash’s books are very good. She goes through the basics without clobbering one with technicalities. I have all her books but for newbies I like "Low Maintenance for Water Gardens"; "The Complete Pond Builder"; and "The Pond Doctor". Again, these not for the technically inclined, rather they are for the newbie. Nedra Zone 6+ Visit my ponds: www.geocities.com/Heartland/Pines/4836 I can only recommend Helen Nash’s magazine, Water Gardening. I find that the vast majority of pond books have conflicting information. Most of the typical ones in the pond stores and garden centers are fine for getting the basics and looking at pictures to get ideas for building but I hardly would recommend them on a technical basis. Once you understand the general basics, most of of what you need to know is in a general physics or math book. I.e. pump flows, volume calculations, estimations of materials, etc.. Then ask questions here! You’ll STILL get lots of conflicting information!! *LOL* It does take some research to get it right. Or you learn by trial and error. Or course the whole point is the journey though! Getting to the destination just means you have pick a new destination for a new journey. Craig <snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile?
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I just ordered Helen Nash’s Plants for Water Gardens book. I can’t wait to get it!!! This is the area I’m having the hardest time with trying to figure out what plants to get, sizes I need and hardy for my zone. This will make life so much simpler!!! Now I can pick my plants and surf the web to order them!!! : ) Then know exactly what to do come winter and lots of other stuff!!! })i({ Cindy })i({ If you think the grass is greener on the other side, get fertilizer!!! : ) Live, Love, Laugh!!! Don’t lose sight of lifes simple treasures, they cost nothing yet are priceless
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Thanks to all who responded. I’ve filed all the suggestions away, hoping to make use of them as winter reading material.
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Hello! I live in SW Michigan (Zone 5/6). I’m thinking about installing a pond and have a few questions. First of all, does this NG have a FAQ I can refer to? I’m new and I hate to ask the same old same old… Second: I have been reading stuff for about a year, and if all things were equal, I would use a high quality liner for my pond. However, I am now the busy owner of a 1 yr old standard Poodle (the big size) who loves being in water. I made a small pond out of an old wheelbarrow last summer when he a puppy and he was in it all the time. I am concerned that he will occasionally get in the new pond and poke his nice big toenails right through the lining. I would of course attempt to teach him not to get in but he is quite ornery! I guess I am interested in whether the lining material can withstand a 60 lb dog or not. (I’m guessing not!) A local discount pet supply business sells MacCourt pre-formed pools. They have a Lotus on sale that I am looking at. However, it (and all of MacCourts other models) is only 18" deep. From my reading this appears to be too shallow to keep fish over winter. The shop assures me that they will be OK. Are they just trying to get rid of this pond (it’s been sitting there all winter)? I am interested only in a few goldfish, nothing fancy. I don’t want to bring anything inside during the winter. Thanks. I appreciate any answers you have for me! Catherine
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Catherine, Check your local Feed stores for Stock Watering Tanks. They are real cheap and come in several shapes and sizes. They are easy to manuver as are galvanized metal. Metal needs to be painted inside with rubber or waterproofing paint to keep from leaching. They have a drain screw on the side bottom. Keep dirt from this area so can reach it. I have one sunk in ground to grade, that is 3′ deep and 6′ round. Small submersible fountain in bottom, two small lily baskets, flattish rocks around rim, bamboo beside. Makes a nice entry by front door. Sally
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Check your local Feed stores for Stock Watering Tanks. I have one sunk in ground to grade, that is 3′ deep and 6′ round. Small submersible fountain in bottom, two small lily baskets, flattish rocks around rim, bamboo beside. Makes a nice entry by front door. Sally
Thanks, I’ll be checking into this. Does being so round look weird or have you softened the edges with plants. My pond will be by our front entrance also. In that spot it won’t look totally natural but I don’t want it to look absolutely out of place or fake either. Catherine
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Thanks, I’ll be checking into this. Does being so round look weird or have you softened the edges with plants. My pond will be by our front entrance also. In that spot it won’t look totally natural but I don’t want it to look absolutely out of place or fake either.
Catherine, Symmetrically shaped ponds are called "formal". If you don’t try to naturalize it too much round doesn’t look odd at all. You can trim the edges with paving stones or bricks, etc. and soften the edges with plants that drape over and into the water as well as some that stand tall. A small fountain can complete the more formal look. "Formal" in this case doesn’t have to mean that you have to wear a ball gown to walk by it. It just means you MEANT for it to look that way. To me, the harder you TRY to make a symmetrical pond look natural the worse it looks. Go ahead and intend for it to be round by the type of surrounding plants and pavers you use! Good luck! — Signed, Kellie My Karma Ran Over My Dogma. It was a catastrophe! Now my dogma’s dead and my karma’s out of alignment. Get in "Knee Deep"! The Internet Pond Society http://w3.one.net/~rzutt/newsletter.html
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I have a few questions as I ponder what the spring thaw will bring me when I take the cover off the pond. A long, LONG time ago, i saw a post about something like a glass "bridge" that extended out of the water, but allowed the fish to swim through it. I know that this is not a very good description, but that is all that I can really remember. If anyone knows what I am talking about, is it possible to either buy or make one that would extend between our two ponds (approx. 15") that the fish could swim through? ALSO, I am looking for something interesting to put into our ponds that would be peaceful with the other animals (fish and frogs) but at the same time, would be interesting. I was considering maybe adding a crawdad or two, or even a water dog. Will this work, has anyone had any success with it? Thanks in advance krudman
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What you’re looking for is the Aqua Span. Overall length is 36" and height is 15". Sells for $149.95US. I found it at www.thatpetplace.com — Bahnee in Craig, CO Attitoad is Everything! http://members.tripod.com/~bahnee
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that bridge thing…..i have seen it in one of my pond cataloges……but which one?….i think they had it for about $150….it actually looks pretty cool…..sorry i can’t remember which one though… I have a few questions as I ponder what the spring thaw will bring me when I take the cover off the pond. A long, LONG time ago, i saw a post about something like a glass "bridge" that extended out of the water, but allowed the fish to swim through it. I know that this is not a very good description, but that is all that I can really remember. If anyone knows what I am talking about, is it possible to either buy or make one that would extend between our two ponds (approx. 15") that the fish could swim
through?
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I have a few questions as I ponder what the spring thaw will bring me when I take the cover off the pond. A long, LONG time ago, i saw a post about something like a glass "bridge" that extended out of the water, but allowed the fish to swim through it.
I guessing maybe looking at these websites: www.petwhse.com or www.thatpetplace.com ALSO, I am looking for something interesting to put into our ponds that would be peaceful with the other animals (fish and frogs) but at the same time, would be interesting. I was considering maybe adding a crawdad or two, or even a water dog. Will this work, has anyone had any success with it?
Forget the crawdads they pick on sleeping fish. Waterdog, don’t know. See my ponds thru the seasons: http://home.earthlink.net/~alanjordan1/jjspond/index.html ~Keep ‘em Wet!~ ~jan~ Tri-Cities WA Zone 7a Remove Z to E-mail
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… A long, LONG time ago, i saw a post about something like a glass "bridge" that extended out of the water, but allowed the fish to swim through it
It was a plexiglass bridge that someone had seen in an ad in the back of a ponding mag. The general consensus was that it would work, but would grow a lot of algae, and be impossible to keep clean. ALSO, I am looking for something interesting to put into our ponds that would be peaceful with the other animals (fish and frogs) but at the same time, would be interesting. I was considering maybe adding a crawdad or two, or even a water dog. Will this work, has anyone had any success with it?
From what I’ve learned about water dogs (mud puppies around here), they would be fine. Not crawdads, though. They have been known to nip sleeping or dormant fish and eat them when that little strategy resulted in death. I have had stealth crawdads in my pond (didn’t know they were there) and they didn’t do that, but otheres have had it happen, and besides they don’t keep the detritus off the bottom very well. Ann in Houston
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I am leaving for Australia in a few weeks. Arriving in Sidney I am just wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to which hostel I should make reservations, or if I need to make reservations at? Also if anyone knows if jobs , and what type of jobs are available? I have a bus pass taking me along Melbourne, Adelaide, Alice Springs and back down the East Coast. What type of year is it dangerous to swim at the Northern East Coast? Is it dangerous at all beaches? And one more question… How early should I make reservations at a hostel for Christmas?
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I am leaving for Australia in a few weeks. Arriving in Sidney I am just wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to which hostel I should make reservations, or if I need to make reservations at?
Reservations in October? I don’t think so. Sydney has an incredible amount of hostel capacity. Even at Christmas you’ll be fine as long as you show up by 8 or 9 in the morning and are willing to try a few places. Also if anyone knows if jobs, and what type of jobs are available?
Largely the same types of jobs you’ll find in Canada… though if you don’t have a work visa your options will be much more limited. miguel
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Hello all, We are new to the pond world and were hoping to get some information. We bought our first house last year; it’s on two acres out in the country and had been vacant for several years. After a lot of general maintenance, we are finally ready to get the cement pond going! Our first question has to do with size. The sides of our pond are sloped inward so steeply that the formula for calculating the gallons wouldn’t be acurate. It’s about ten feet in diameter and four feet deep at the deepest point, but the sides slope inward severely – i.e., it’s only a foot deep 12 inches in from the side. Any math geniuses out there? We would just like to have a general idea. Our second question is this: after filling it up the first time, we quickly realized that we didn’t like seeing the light concrete color at the bottom. We would like to know what we can use to make it black. A liner is not an option; it’s got a rock border already in place. And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. Any info would be helpful – we appreciate your time! best regards, melissa and gregg
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During the ponding season a pump should run 24/7. Once the water temp. reaches the mid-40s and is going to stay there for a while you can shut the pump off. More details will help – how many fish and what size are they, what kind of plants, a filter, waterfall or fountain? Where you live will determine much of your winter activities. And your zone. You can check out the third link in my sig. for lots of good websites. Welcome to rec.ponds!! K30A See my brother’s website http://WWW.30acreimaging.com/ see the labradors at http://www.daydreamergardens.com/2_level/articles/dog_how_to.htm K30A and friends’ pond information page http://hometown.aol.com/k30a/myhomepage/writing.html
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If you just want a rough idea of the volume, try this: find a container of five to ten gallons, or anything that you know the volume, and clock it to see how long it takes to fill it up w/your hose. Then, w/out turning off the hose, fill up the pond, timing it again. Then, just do the math, using the timed flow rate that you detemined with the small container. As for the color, there are several kinds of concrete paint available, and some of them will seal up any pores or cracks in the concrete at the same time. Just go to any full service hardware or paint store and ask what kind to use. Good luck, and hope this helped. — Easy ~ Pond is the newest distributor for Permalon pond liners. Stronger, lighter, and sized per order, Permalon is comparable to EPDM in price only. Contact me via email for more information. Before you buy.
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Melissa, the gallonage is easy to calculate but I’ll have to make some assumptions since you imply that the pond is circular (when you speak of diameter instead of length and width) and that the sides slope down at a 45 degree angle (one foot out equals one foot down). In this case that would mean that where it’s 4 feet deep, is only a 2 foot diameter circle at the center. So you have an upside-down truncated cone. If this is the case for a (very) rough estimate of gallons it’s pi r squared one-half h minus the truncated part, or 3.14 * 5*5*2.5* 7.5 gallons minus the truncated part gallons (only about 12 gallons), or about 1450 gallons. You can also use the flow method as another poster suggested, timing first how long it takes to fill 5 gallons using a 5 gallon bucket, then timing how long it takes to fill the pond. The ratio of the first time to the second time is the ratio of 5 gallons to your pond’s gallons. I wouldn’t get too hung up on exact gallons, it’s just a guide to help you plan for plants, fish, pump. You could be plus or minus 150 gallons or so and it wouldn’t make a great difference for most things. Tim
| Our first question has to do with size. The sides of our pond are sloped | inward so steeply that the formula for calculating the gallons wouldn’t be | acurate. It’s about ten feet in diameter and four feet deep at the deepest | point, but the sides slope inward severely – i.e., it’s only a foot deep 12 | inches in from the side. Any math geniuses out there? We would just like to | have a general idea.
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I agree with Mike on the painting. Algae will form on the sides and bottom in no time. It would cover your paint job anyways so why bother. })i({ Cindy })i({ If you think the grass is greener on the other side, get fertilizer!!! : ) Live, Love, Laugh!!! Don’t lose sight of lifes simple treasures, they cost nothing yet are priceless
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snip Our first question has to do with size. The sides of our pond are sloped inward so steeply that the formula for calculating the gallons wouldn’t be acurate. It’s about ten feet in diameter and four feet deep at the deepest point, but the sides slope inward severely – i.e., it’s only a foot deep 12 inches in from the side. Any math geniuses out there?
The way to find out the gallonage in this pond would be to measure it if you fill it again. Fill a container of known gallons and time it. Then fill the pond. The time x the gallons in the container is the ponds volume. Our second question is this: after filling it up the first time, we quickly realized that we didn’t like seeing the light concrete color at the bottom. We would like to know what we can use to make it black. A liner is not an option; it’s got a rock border already in place.
It won’t stay this color as algae will cover the sides after a short while, this is good. If you really don’t like the color, you can drain it and coat it with Thoroseal which can be dyed with standard concrete colors. And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day.
Filter pumps run 24/7. Feature pumps can be run when desired. FAQ at http://w3.one.net/~rzutt/faq.html snip
– hth – how no NEWS is good
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<snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day.
After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –
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I can only recommend Helen Nash’s magazine, Water Gardening. I find that the vast majority of pond books have conflicting information. Most of the typical ones in the pond stores and garden centers are fine for getting the basics and looking at pictures to get ideas for building but I hardly would recommend them on a technical basis. Once you understand the general basics, most of of what you need to know is in a general physics or math book. I.e. pump flows, volume calculations, estimations of materials, etc.. Then ask questions here! You’ll STILL get lots of conflicting information!! *LOL* It does take some research to get it right. Or you learn by trial and error. Or course the whole point is the journey though! Getting to the destination just means you have pick a new destination for a new journey. Craig – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – <snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile?
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Hi, Any of Helen Nash’s books are a good source of information. I like her "Low-Maintenance Water Gardens" and "The Pond Doctor". Barron’s "Water Gardens" has much info for a little book. It even has section for building bridges. For plants Helen Nash’s "Aquatic Plants & Their Cultivation", American Horticultural Society "Ponds & Water Features". As you can see, there are many good books. These are just a few of my collection. I don’t know if this helps or just adds to the confusion. — Bonnie NJ http://www.users.fast.net/~maebe/index.htm – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – <snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile?
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Craig, I can understand your confusion… but Helen Nash is editor of Pond & Garden magazine. Watergardening is yet another good magazine….. but not as good as Pond & Garden (imo) ! Any of Helen Nash’s books are very good. She goes through the basics without clobbering one with technicalities. I have all her books but for newbies I like "Low Maintenance for Water Gardens"; "The Complete Pond Builder"; and "The Pond Doctor". Again, these not for the technically inclined, rather they are for the newbie. Nedra Zone 6+ Visit my ponds: www.geocities.com/Heartland/Pines/4836
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I can only recommend Helen Nash’s magazine, Water Gardening. I find that the vast majority of pond books have conflicting information. Most of the typical ones in the pond stores and garden centers are fine for getting the basics and looking at pictures to get ideas for building but I hardly would recommend them on a technical basis. Once you understand the general basics, most of of what you need to know is in a general physics or math book. I.e. pump flows, volume calculations, estimations of materials, etc.. Then ask questions here! You’ll STILL get lots of conflicting information!! *LOL* It does take some research to get it right. Or you learn by trial and error. Or course the whole point is the journey though! Getting to the destination just means you have pick a new destination for a new journey. Craig <snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile?
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Watergardening is yet another good magazine….. but not as good as Pond & Garden (imo) !
I second that! Pond & Garden is the most beautiful and informative magazine I have ever read …. on any subject. Judy from California
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Whoops.. your correct.. see what happens you stay up late at night and try to rely on an aging brain? Craig – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Craig, I can understand your confusion… but Helen Nash is editor of Pond & Garden magazine. Watergardening is yet another good magazine….. but not as good as Pond & Garden (imo) ! Any of Helen Nash’s books are very good. She goes through the basics without clobbering one with technicalities. I have all her books but for newbies I like "Low Maintenance for Water Gardens"; "The Complete Pond Builder"; and "The Pond Doctor". Again, these not for the technically inclined, rather they are for the newbie. Nedra Zone 6+ Visit my ponds: www.geocities.com/Heartland/Pines/4836 I can only recommend Helen Nash’s magazine, Water Gardening. I find that the vast majority of pond books have conflicting information. Most of the typical ones in the pond stores and garden centers are fine for getting the basics and looking at pictures to get ideas for building but I hardly would recommend them on a technical basis. Once you understand the general basics, most of of what you need to know is in a general physics or math book. I.e. pump flows, volume calculations, estimations of materials, etc.. Then ask questions here! You’ll STILL get lots of conflicting information!! *LOL* It does take some research to get it right. Or you learn by trial and error. Or course the whole point is the journey though! Getting to the destination just means you have pick a new destination for a new journey. Craig <snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile?
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I just ordered Helen Nash’s Plants for Water Gardens book. I can’t wait to get it!!! This is the area I’m having the hardest time with trying to figure out what plants to get, sizes I need and hardy for my zone. This will make life so much simpler!!! Now I can pick my plants and surf the web to order them!!! : ) Then know exactly what to do come winter and lots of other stuff!!! })i({ Cindy })i({ If you think the grass is greener on the other side, get fertilizer!!! : ) Live, Love, Laugh!!! Don’t lose sight of lifes simple treasures, they cost nothing yet are priceless
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Thanks to all who responded. I’ve filed all the suggestions away, hoping to make use of them as winter reading material.
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Hello! I live in SW Michigan (Zone 5/6). I’m thinking about installing a pond and have a few questions. First of all, does this NG have a FAQ I can refer to? I’m new and I hate to ask the same old same old… Second: I have been reading stuff for about a year, and if all things were equal, I would use a high quality liner for my pond. However, I am now the busy owner of a 1 yr old standard Poodle (the big size) who loves being in water. I made a small pond out of an old wheelbarrow last summer when he a puppy and he was in it all the time. I am concerned that he will occasionally get in the new pond and poke his nice big toenails right through the lining. I would of course attempt to teach him not to get in but he is quite ornery! I guess I am interested in whether the lining material can withstand a 60 lb dog or not. (I’m guessing not!) A local discount pet supply business sells MacCourt pre-formed pools. They have a Lotus on sale that I am looking at. However, it (and all of MacCourts other models) is only 18" deep. From my reading this appears to be too shallow to keep fish over winter. The shop assures me that they will be OK. Are they just trying to get rid of this pond (it’s been sitting there all winter)? I am interested only in a few goldfish, nothing fancy. I don’t want to bring anything inside during the winter. Thanks. I appreciate any answers you have for me! Catherine
Response:
Catherine, Check your local Feed stores for Stock Watering Tanks. They are real cheap and come in several shapes and sizes. They are easy to manuver as are galvanized metal. Metal needs to be painted inside with rubber or waterproofing paint to keep from leaching. They have a drain screw on the side bottom. Keep dirt from this area so can reach it. I have one sunk in ground to grade, that is 3′ deep and 6′ round. Small submersible fountain in bottom, two small lily baskets, flattish rocks around rim, bamboo beside. Makes a nice entry by front door. Sally
Response:
Check your local Feed stores for Stock Watering Tanks. I have one sunk in ground to grade, that is 3′ deep and 6′ round. Small submersible fountain in bottom, two small lily baskets, flattish rocks around rim, bamboo beside. Makes a nice entry by front door. Sally
Thanks, I’ll be checking into this. Does being so round look weird or have you softened the edges with plants. My pond will be by our front entrance also. In that spot it won’t look totally natural but I don’t want it to look absolutely out of place or fake either. Catherine
Response:
Thanks, I’ll be checking into this. Does being so round look weird or have you softened the edges with plants. My pond will be by our front entrance also. In that spot it won’t look totally natural but I don’t want it to look absolutely out of place or fake either.
Catherine, Symmetrically shaped ponds are called "formal". If you don’t try to naturalize it too much round doesn’t look odd at all. You can trim the edges with paving stones or bricks, etc. and soften the edges with plants that drape over and into the water as well as some that stand tall. A small fountain can complete the more formal look. "Formal" in this case doesn’t have to mean that you have to wear a ball gown to walk by it. It just means you MEANT for it to look that way. To me, the harder you TRY to make a symmetrical pond look natural the worse it looks. Go ahead and intend for it to be round by the type of surrounding plants and pavers you use! Good luck! — Signed, Kellie My Karma Ran Over My Dogma. It was a catastrophe! Now my dogma’s dead and my karma’s out of alignment. Get in "Knee Deep"! The Internet Pond Society http://w3.one.net/~rzutt/newsletter.html
Response:
I have a few questions as I ponder what the spring thaw will bring me when I take the cover off the pond. A long, LONG time ago, i saw a post about something like a glass "bridge" that extended out of the water, but allowed the fish to swim through it. I know that this is not a very good description, but that is all that I can really remember. If anyone knows what I am talking about, is it possible to either buy or make one that would extend between our two ponds (approx. 15") that the fish could swim through? ALSO, I am looking for something interesting to put into our ponds that would be peaceful with the other animals (fish and frogs) but at the same time, would be interesting. I was considering maybe adding a crawdad or two, or even a water dog. Will this work, has anyone had any success with it? Thanks in advance krudman
Response:
What you’re looking for is the Aqua Span. Overall length is 36" and height is 15". Sells for $149.95US. I found it at www.thatpetplace.com — Bahnee in Craig, CO Attitoad is Everything! http://members.tripod.com/~bahnee
Response:
that bridge thing…..i have seen it in one of my pond cataloges……but which one?….i think they had it for about $150….it actually looks pretty cool…..sorry i can’t remember which one though… I have a few questions as I ponder what the spring thaw will bring me when I take the cover off the pond. A long, LONG time ago, i saw a post about something like a glass "bridge" that extended out of the water, but allowed the fish to swim through it. I know that this is not a very good description, but that is all that I can really remember. If anyone knows what I am talking about, is it possible to either buy or make one that would extend between our two ponds (approx. 15") that the fish could swim
through?
Response:
I have a few questions as I ponder what the spring thaw will bring me when I take the cover off the pond. A long, LONG time ago, i saw a post about something like a glass "bridge" that extended out of the water, but allowed the fish to swim through it.
I guessing maybe looking at these websites: www.petwhse.com or www.thatpetplace.com ALSO, I am looking for something interesting to put into our ponds that would be peaceful with the other animals (fish and frogs) but at the same time, would be interesting. I was considering maybe adding a crawdad or two, or even a water dog. Will this work, has anyone had any success with it?
Forget the crawdads they pick on sleeping fish. Waterdog, don’t know. See my ponds thru the seasons: http://home.earthlink.net/~alanjordan1/jjspond/index.html ~Keep ‘em Wet!~ ~jan~ Tri-Cities WA Zone 7a Remove Z to E-mail
Response:
… A long, LONG time ago, i saw a post about something like a glass "bridge" that extended out of the water, but allowed the fish to swim through it
It was a plexiglass bridge that someone had seen in an ad in the back of a ponding mag. The general consensus was that it would work, but would grow a lot of algae, and be impossible to keep clean. ALSO, I am looking for something interesting to put into our ponds that would be peaceful with the other animals (fish and frogs) but at the same time, would be interesting. I was considering maybe adding a crawdad or two, or even a water dog. Will this work, has anyone had any success with it?
From what I’ve learned about water dogs (mud puppies around here), they would be fine. Not crawdads, though. They have been known to nip sleeping or dormant fish and eat them when that little strategy resulted in death. I have had stealth crawdads in my pond (didn’t know they were there) and they didn’t do that, but otheres have had it happen, and besides they don’t keep the detritus off the bottom very well. Ann in Houston
Response:
I am leaving for Australia in a few weeks. Arriving in Sidney I am just wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to which hostel I should make reservations, or if I need to make reservations at? Also if anyone knows if jobs , and what type of jobs are available? I have a bus pass taking me along Melbourne, Adelaide, Alice Springs and back down the East Coast. What type of year is it dangerous to swim at the Northern East Coast? Is it dangerous at all beaches? And one more question… How early should I make reservations at a hostel for Christmas?
Response:
I am leaving for Australia in a few weeks. Arriving in Sidney I am just wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to which hostel I should make reservations, or if I need to make reservations at?
Reservations in October? I don’t think so. Sydney has an incredible amount of hostel capacity. Even at Christmas you’ll be fine as long as you show up by 8 or 9 in the morning and are willing to try a few places. Also if anyone knows if jobs, and what type of jobs are available?
Largely the same types of jobs you’ll find in Canada… though if you don’t have a work visa your options will be much more limited. miguel
Response:
Hello all, We are new to the pond world and were hoping to get some information. We bought our first house last year; it’s on two acres out in the country and had been vacant for several years. After a lot of general maintenance, we are finally ready to get the cement pond going! Our first question has to do with size. The sides of our pond are sloped inward so steeply that the formula for calculating the gallons wouldn’t be acurate. It’s about ten feet in diameter and four feet deep at the deepest point, but the sides slope inward severely – i.e., it’s only a foot deep 12 inches in from the side. Any math geniuses out there? We would just like to have a general idea. Our second question is this: after filling it up the first time, we quickly realized that we didn’t like seeing the light concrete color at the bottom. We would like to know what we can use to make it black. A liner is not an option; it’s got a rock border already in place. And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. Any info would be helpful – we appreciate your time! best regards, melissa and gregg
Response:
During the ponding season a pump should run 24/7. Once the water temp. reaches the mid-40s and is going to stay there for a while you can shut the pump off. More details will help – how many fish and what size are they, what kind of plants, a filter, waterfall or fountain? Where you live will determine much of your winter activities. And your zone. You can check out the third link in my sig. for lots of good websites. Welcome to rec.ponds!! K30A See my brother’s website http://WWW.30acreimaging.com/ see the labradors at http://www.daydreamergardens.com/2_level/articles/dog_how_to.htm K30A and friends’ pond information page http://hometown.aol.com/k30a/myhomepage/writing.html
Response:
If you just want a rough idea of the volume, try this: find a container of five to ten gallons, or anything that you know the volume, and clock it to see how long it takes to fill it up w/your hose. Then, w/out turning off the hose, fill up the pond, timing it again. Then, just do the math, using the timed flow rate that you detemined with the small container. As for the color, there are several kinds of concrete paint available, and some of them will seal up any pores or cracks in the concrete at the same time. Just go to any full service hardware or paint store and ask what kind to use. Good luck, and hope this helped. — Easy ~ Pond is the newest distributor for Permalon pond liners. Stronger, lighter, and sized per order, Permalon is comparable to EPDM in price only. Contact me via email for more information. Before you buy.
Response:
Melissa, the gallonage is easy to calculate but I’ll have to make some assumptions since you imply that the pond is circular (when you speak of diameter instead of length and width) and that the sides slope down at a 45 degree angle (one foot out equals one foot down). In this case that would mean that where it’s 4 feet deep, is only a 2 foot diameter circle at the center. So you have an upside-down truncated cone. If this is the case for a (very) rough estimate of gallons it’s pi r squared one-half h minus the truncated part, or 3.14 * 5*5*2.5* 7.5 gallons minus the truncated part gallons (only about 12 gallons), or about 1450 gallons. You can also use the flow method as another poster suggested, timing first how long it takes to fill 5 gallons using a 5 gallon bucket, then timing how long it takes to fill the pond. The ratio of the first time to the second time is the ratio of 5 gallons to your pond’s gallons. I wouldn’t get too hung up on exact gallons, it’s just a guide to help you plan for plants, fish, pump. You could be plus or minus 150 gallons or so and it wouldn’t make a great difference for most things. Tim
| Our first question has to do with size. The sides of our pond are sloped | inward so steeply that the formula for calculating the gallons wouldn’t be | acurate. It’s about ten feet in diameter and four feet deep at the deepest | point, but the sides slope inward severely – i.e., it’s only a foot deep 12 | inches in from the side. Any math geniuses out there? We would just like to | have a general idea.
Response:
I agree with Mike on the painting. Algae will form on the sides and bottom in no time. It would cover your paint job anyways so why bother. })i({ Cindy })i({ If you think the grass is greener on the other side, get fertilizer!!! : ) Live, Love, Laugh!!! Don’t lose sight of lifes simple treasures, they cost nothing yet are priceless
Response:
snip Our first question has to do with size. The sides of our pond are sloped inward so steeply that the formula for calculating the gallons wouldn’t be acurate. It’s about ten feet in diameter and four feet deep at the deepest point, but the sides slope inward severely – i.e., it’s only a foot deep 12 inches in from the side. Any math geniuses out there?
The way to find out the gallonage in this pond would be to measure it if you fill it again. Fill a container of known gallons and time it. Then fill the pond. The time x the gallons in the container is the ponds volume. Our second question is this: after filling it up the first time, we quickly realized that we didn’t like seeing the light concrete color at the bottom. We would like to know what we can use to make it black. A liner is not an option; it’s got a rock border already in place.
It won’t stay this color as algae will cover the sides after a short while, this is good. If you really don’t like the color, you can drain it and coat it with Thoroseal which can be dyed with standard concrete colors. And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day.
Filter pumps run 24/7. Feature pumps can be run when desired. FAQ at http://w3.one.net/~rzutt/faq.html snip
– hth – how no NEWS is good
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<snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day.
After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –
Response:
I can only recommend Helen Nash’s magazine, Water Gardening. I find that the vast majority of pond books have conflicting information. Most of the typical ones in the pond stores and garden centers are fine for getting the basics and looking at pictures to get ideas for building but I hardly would recommend them on a technical basis. Once you understand the general basics, most of of what you need to know is in a general physics or math book. I.e. pump flows, volume calculations, estimations of materials, etc.. Then ask questions here! You’ll STILL get lots of conflicting information!! *LOL* It does take some research to get it right. Or you learn by trial and error. Or course the whole point is the journey though! Getting to the destination just means you have pick a new destination for a new journey. Craig – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – <snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile?
Response:
Hi, Any of Helen Nash’s books are a good source of information. I like her "Low-Maintenance Water Gardens" and "The Pond Doctor". Barron’s "Water Gardens" has much info for a little book. It even has section for building bridges. For plants Helen Nash’s "Aquatic Plants & Their Cultivation", American Horticultural Society "Ponds & Water Features". As you can see, there are many good books. These are just a few of my collection. I don’t know if this helps or just adds to the confusion. — Bonnie NJ http://www.users.fast.net/~maebe/index.htm – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – <snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile?
Response:
Craig, I can understand your confusion… but Helen Nash is editor of Pond & Garden magazine. Watergardening is yet another good magazine….. but not as good as Pond & Garden (imo) ! Any of Helen Nash’s books are very good. She goes through the basics without clobbering one with technicalities. I have all her books but for newbies I like "Low Maintenance for Water Gardens"; "The Complete Pond Builder"; and "The Pond Doctor". Again, these not for the technically inclined, rather they are for the newbie. Nedra Zone 6+ Visit my ponds: www.geocities.com/Heartland/Pines/4836
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I can only recommend Helen Nash’s magazine, Water Gardening. I find that the vast majority of pond books have conflicting information. Most of the typical ones in the pond stores and garden centers are fine for getting the basics and looking at pictures to get ideas for building but I hardly would recommend them on a technical basis. Once you understand the general basics, most of of what you need to know is in a general physics or math book. I.e. pump flows, volume calculations, estimations of materials, etc.. Then ask questions here! You’ll STILL get lots of conflicting information!! *LOL* It does take some research to get it right. Or you learn by trial and error. Or course the whole point is the journey though! Getting to the destination just means you have pick a new destination for a new journey. Craig <snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile?
Response:
Watergardening is yet another good magazine….. but not as good as Pond & Garden (imo) !
I second that! Pond & Garden is the most beautiful and informative magazine I have ever read …. on any subject. Judy from California
Response:
Whoops.. your correct.. see what happens you stay up late at night and try to rely on an aging brain? Craig – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Craig, I can understand your confusion… but Helen Nash is editor of Pond & Garden magazine. Watergardening is yet another good magazine….. but not as good as Pond & Garden (imo) ! Any of Helen Nash’s books are very good. She goes through the basics without clobbering one with technicalities. I have all her books but for newbies I like "Low Maintenance for Water Gardens"; "The Complete Pond Builder"; and "The Pond Doctor". Again, these not for the technically inclined, rather they are for the newbie. Nedra Zone 6+ Visit my ponds: www.geocities.com/Heartland/Pines/4836 I can only recommend Helen Nash’s magazine, Water Gardening. I find that the vast majority of pond books have conflicting information. Most of the typical ones in the pond stores and garden centers are fine for getting the basics and looking at pictures to get ideas for building but I hardly would recommend them on a technical basis. Once you understand the general basics, most of of what you need to know is in a general physics or math book. I.e. pump flows, volume calculations, estimations of materials, etc.. Then ask questions here! You’ll STILL get lots of conflicting information!! *LOL* It does take some research to get it right. Or you learn by trial and error. Or course the whole point is the journey though! Getting to the destination just means you have pick a new destination for a new journey. Craig <snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile?
Response:
I just ordered Helen Nash’s Plants for Water Gardens book. I can’t wait to get it!!! This is the area I’m having the hardest time with trying to figure out what plants to get, sizes I need and hardy for my zone. This will make life so much simpler!!! Now I can pick my plants and surf the web to order them!!! : ) Then know exactly what to do come winter and lots of other stuff!!! })i({ Cindy })i({ If you think the grass is greener on the other side, get fertilizer!!! : ) Live, Love, Laugh!!! Don’t lose sight of lifes simple treasures, they cost nothing yet are priceless
Response:
Thanks to all who responded. I’ve filed all the suggestions away, hoping to make use of them as winter reading material.
Response:
Hello! I live in SW Michigan (Zone 5/6). I’m thinking about installing a pond and have a few questions. First of all, does this NG have a FAQ I can refer to? I’m new and I hate to ask the same old same old… Second: I have been reading stuff for about a year, and if all things were equal, I would use a high quality liner for my pond. However, I am now the busy owner of a 1 yr old standard Poodle (the big size) who loves being in water. I made a small pond out of an old wheelbarrow last summer when he a puppy and he was in it all the time. I am concerned that he will occasionally get in the new pond and poke his nice big toenails right through the lining. I would of course attempt to teach him not to get in but he is quite ornery! I guess I am interested in whether the lining material can withstand a 60 lb dog or not. (I’m guessing not!) A local discount pet supply business sells MacCourt pre-formed pools. They have a Lotus on sale that I am looking at. However, it (and all of MacCourts other models) is only 18" deep. From my reading this appears to be too shallow to keep fish over winter. The shop assures me that they will be OK. Are they just trying to get rid of this pond (it’s been sitting there all winter)? I am interested only in a few goldfish, nothing fancy. I don’t want to bring anything inside during the winter. Thanks. I appreciate any answers you have for me! Catherine
Response:
Catherine, Check your local Feed stores for Stock Watering Tanks. They are real cheap and come in several shapes and sizes. They are easy to manuver as are galvanized metal. Metal needs to be painted inside with rubber or waterproofing paint to keep from leaching. They have a drain screw on the side bottom. Keep dirt from this area so can reach it. I have one sunk in ground to grade, that is 3′ deep and 6′ round. Small submersible fountain in bottom, two small lily baskets, flattish rocks around rim, bamboo beside. Makes a nice entry by front door. Sally
Response:
Check your local Feed stores for Stock Watering Tanks. I have one sunk in ground to grade, that is 3′ deep and 6′ round. Small submersible fountain in bottom, two small lily baskets, flattish rocks around rim, bamboo beside. Makes a nice entry by front door. Sally
Thanks, I’ll be checking into this. Does being so round look weird or have you softened the edges with plants. My pond will be by our front entrance also. In that spot it won’t look totally natural but I don’t want it to look absolutely out of place or fake either. Catherine
Response:
Thanks, I’ll be checking into this. Does being so round look weird or have you softened the edges with plants. My pond will be by our front entrance also. In that spot it won’t look totally natural but I don’t want it to look absolutely out of place or fake either.
Catherine, Symmetrically shaped ponds are called "formal". If you don’t try to naturalize it too much round doesn’t look odd at all. You can trim the edges with paving stones or bricks, etc. and soften the edges with plants that drape over and into the water as well as some that stand tall. A small fountain can complete the more formal look. "Formal" in this case doesn’t have to mean that you have to wear a ball gown to walk by it. It just means you MEANT for it to look that way. To me, the harder you TRY to make a symmetrical pond look natural the worse it looks. Go ahead and intend for it to be round by the type of surrounding plants and pavers you use! Good luck! — Signed, Kellie My Karma Ran Over My Dogma. It was a catastrophe! Now my dogma’s dead and my karma’s out of alignment. Get in "Knee Deep"! The Internet Pond Society http://w3.one.net/~rzutt/newsletter.html
Response:
I have a few questions as I ponder what the spring thaw will bring me when I take the cover off the pond. A long, LONG time ago, i saw a post about something like a glass "bridge" that extended out of the water, but allowed the fish to swim through it. I know that this is not a very good description, but that is all that I can really remember. If anyone knows what I am talking about, is it possible to either buy or make one that would extend between our two ponds (approx. 15") that the fish could swim through? ALSO, I am looking for something interesting to put into our ponds that would be peaceful with the other animals (fish and frogs) but at the same time, would be interesting. I was considering maybe adding a crawdad or two, or even a water dog. Will this work, has anyone had any success with it? Thanks in advance krudman
Response:
What you’re looking for is the Aqua Span. Overall length is 36" and height is 15". Sells for $149.95US. I found it at www.thatpetplace.com — Bahnee in Craig, CO Attitoad is Everything! http://members.tripod.com/~bahnee
Response:
that bridge thing…..i have seen it in one of my pond cataloges……but which one?….i think they had it for about $150….it actually looks pretty cool…..sorry i can’t remember which one though… I have a few questions as I ponder what the spring thaw will bring me when I take the cover off the pond. A long, LONG time ago, i saw a post about something like a glass "bridge" that extended out of the water, but allowed the fish to swim through it. I know that this is not a very good description, but that is all that I can really remember. If anyone knows what I am talking about, is it possible to either buy or make one that would extend between our two ponds (approx. 15") that the fish could swim
through?
Response:
I have a few questions as I ponder what the spring thaw will bring me when I take the cover off the pond. A long, LONG time ago, i saw a post about something like a glass "bridge" that extended out of the water, but allowed the fish to swim through it.
I guessing maybe looking at these websites: www.petwhse.com or www.thatpetplace.com ALSO, I am looking for something interesting to put into our ponds that would be peaceful with the other animals (fish and frogs) but at the same time, would be interesting. I was considering maybe adding a crawdad or two, or even a water dog. Will this work, has anyone had any success with it?
Forget the crawdads they pick on sleeping fish. Waterdog, don’t know. See my ponds thru the seasons: http://home.earthlink.net/~alanjordan1/jjspond/index.html ~Keep ‘em Wet!~ ~jan~ Tri-Cities WA Zone 7a Remove Z to E-mail
Response:
… A long, LONG time ago, i saw a post about something like a glass "bridge" that extended out of the water, but allowed the fish to swim through it
It was a plexiglass bridge that someone had seen in an ad in the back of a ponding mag. The general consensus was that it would work, but would grow a lot of algae, and be impossible to keep clean. ALSO, I am looking for something interesting to put into our ponds that would be peaceful with the other animals (fish and frogs) but at the same time, would be interesting. I was considering maybe adding a crawdad or two, or even a water dog. Will this work, has anyone had any success with it?
From what I’ve learned about water dogs (mud puppies around here), they would be fine. Not crawdads, though. They have been known to nip sleeping or dormant fish and eat them when that little strategy resulted in death. I have had stealth crawdads in my pond (didn’t know they were there) and they didn’t do that, but otheres have had it happen, and besides they don’t keep the detritus off the bottom very well. Ann in Houston
Response:
I am leaving for Australia in a few weeks. Arriving in Sidney I am just wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to which hostel I should make reservations, or if I need to make reservations at? Also if anyone knows if jobs , and what type of jobs are available? I have a bus pass taking me along Melbourne, Adelaide, Alice Springs and back down the East Coast. What type of year is it dangerous to swim at the Northern East Coast? Is it dangerous at all beaches? And one more question… How early should I make reservations at a hostel for Christmas?
Response:
I am leaving for Australia in a few weeks. Arriving in Sidney I am just wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to which hostel I should make reservations, or if I need to make reservations at?
Reservations in October? I don’t think so. Sydney has an incredible amount of hostel capacity. Even at Christmas you’ll be fine as long as you show up by 8 or 9 in the morning and are willing to try a few places. Also if anyone knows if jobs, and what type of jobs are available?
Largely the same types of jobs you’ll find in Canada… though if you don’t have a work visa your options will be much more limited. miguel
Response:
Hello all, We are new to the pond world and were hoping to get some information. We bought our first house last year; it’s on two acres out in the country and had been vacant for several years. After a lot of general maintenance, we are finally ready to get the cement pond going! Our first question has to do with size. The sides of our pond are sloped inward so steeply that the formula for calculating the gallons wouldn’t be acurate. It’s about ten feet in diameter and four feet deep at the deepest point, but the sides slope inward severely – i.e., it’s only a foot deep 12 inches in from the side. Any math geniuses out there? We would just like to have a general idea. Our second question is this: after filling it up the first time, we quickly realized that we didn’t like seeing the light concrete color at the bottom. We would like to know what we can use to make it black. A liner is not an option; it’s got a rock border already in place. And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. Any info would be helpful – we appreciate your time! best regards, melissa and gregg
Response:
During the ponding season a pump should run 24/7. Once the water temp. reaches the mid-40s and is going to stay there for a while you can shut the pump off. More details will help – how many fish and what size are they, what kind of plants, a filter, waterfall or fountain? Where you live will determine much of your winter activities. And your zone. You can check out the third link in my sig. for lots of good websites. Welcome to rec.ponds!! K30A See my brother’s website http://WWW.30acreimaging.com/ see the labradors at http://www.daydreamergardens.com/2_level/articles/dog_how_to.htm K30A and friends’ pond information page http://hometown.aol.com/k30a/myhomepage/writing.html
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If you just want a rough idea of the volume, try this: find a container of five to ten gallons, or anything that you know the volume, and clock it to see how long it takes to fill it up w/your hose. Then, w/out turning off the hose, fill up the pond, timing it again. Then, just do the math, using the timed flow rate that you detemined with the small container. As for the color, there are several kinds of concrete paint available, and some of them will seal up any pores or cracks in the concrete at the same time. Just go to any full service hardware or paint store and ask what kind to use. Good luck, and hope this helped. — Easy ~ Pond is the newest distributor for Permalon pond liners. Stronger, lighter, and sized per order, Permalon is comparable to EPDM in price only. Contact me via email for more information. Before you buy.
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Melissa, the gallonage is easy to calculate but I’ll have to make some assumptions since you imply that the pond is circular (when you speak of diameter instead of length and width) and that the sides slope down at a 45 degree angle (one foot out equals one foot down). In this case that would mean that where it’s 4 feet deep, is only a 2 foot diameter circle at the center. So you have an upside-down truncated cone. If this is the case for a (very) rough estimate of gallons it’s pi r squared one-half h minus the truncated part, or 3.14 * 5*5*2.5* 7.5 gallons minus the truncated part gallons (only about 12 gallons), or about 1450 gallons. You can also use the flow method as another poster suggested, timing first how long it takes to fill 5 gallons using a 5 gallon bucket, then timing how long it takes to fill the pond. The ratio of the first time to the second time is the ratio of 5 gallons to your pond’s gallons. I wouldn’t get too hung up on exact gallons, it’s just a guide to help you plan for plants, fish, pump. You could be plus or minus 150 gallons or so and it wouldn’t make a great difference for most things. Tim
| Our first question has to do with size. The sides of our pond are sloped | inward so steeply that the formula for calculating the gallons wouldn’t be | acurate. It’s about ten feet in diameter and four feet deep at the deepest | point, but the sides slope inward severely – i.e., it’s only a foot deep 12 | inches in from the side. Any math geniuses out there? We would just like to | have a general idea.
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I agree with Mike on the painting. Algae will form on the sides and bottom in no time. It would cover your paint job anyways so why bother. })i({ Cindy })i({ If you think the grass is greener on the other side, get fertilizer!!! : ) Live, Love, Laugh!!! Don’t lose sight of lifes simple treasures, they cost nothing yet are priceless
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snip Our first question has to do with size. The sides of our pond are sloped inward so steeply that the formula for calculating the gallons wouldn’t be acurate. It’s about ten feet in diameter and four feet deep at the deepest point, but the sides slope inward severely – i.e., it’s only a foot deep 12 inches in from the side. Any math geniuses out there?
The way to find out the gallonage in this pond would be to measure it if you fill it again. Fill a container of known gallons and time it. Then fill the pond. The time x the gallons in the container is the ponds volume. Our second question is this: after filling it up the first time, we quickly realized that we didn’t like seeing the light concrete color at the bottom. We would like to know what we can use to make it black. A liner is not an option; it’s got a rock border already in place.
It won’t stay this color as algae will cover the sides after a short while, this is good. If you really don’t like the color, you can drain it and coat it with Thoroseal which can be dyed with standard concrete colors. And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day.
Filter pumps run 24/7. Feature pumps can be run when desired. FAQ at http://w3.one.net/~rzutt/faq.html snip
– hth – how no NEWS is good
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<snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day.
After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –
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I can only recommend Helen Nash’s magazine, Water Gardening. I find that the vast majority of pond books have conflicting information. Most of the typical ones in the pond stores and garden centers are fine for getting the basics and looking at pictures to get ideas for building but I hardly would recommend them on a technical basis. Once you understand the general basics, most of of what you need to know is in a general physics or math book. I.e. pump flows, volume calculations, estimations of materials, etc.. Then ask questions here! You’ll STILL get lots of conflicting information!! *LOL* It does take some research to get it right. Or you learn by trial and error. Or course the whole point is the journey though! Getting to the destination just means you have pick a new destination for a new journey. Craig – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – <snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile?
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Hi, Any of Helen Nash’s books are a good source of information. I like her "Low-Maintenance Water Gardens" and "The Pond Doctor". Barron’s "Water Gardens" has much info for a little book. It even has section for building bridges. For plants Helen Nash’s "Aquatic Plants & Their Cultivation", American Horticultural Society "Ponds & Water Features". As you can see, there are many good books. These are just a few of my collection. I don’t know if this helps or just adds to the confusion. — Bonnie NJ http://www.users.fast.net/~maebe/index.htm – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – <snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile?
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Craig, I can understand your confusion… but Helen Nash is editor of Pond & Garden magazine. Watergardening is yet another good magazine….. but not as good as Pond & Garden (imo) ! Any of Helen Nash’s books are very good. She goes through the basics without clobbering one with technicalities. I have all her books but for newbies I like "Low Maintenance for Water Gardens"; "The Complete Pond Builder"; and "The Pond Doctor". Again, these not for the technically inclined, rather they are for the newbie. Nedra Zone 6+ Visit my ponds: www.geocities.com/Heartland/Pines/4836
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I can only recommend Helen Nash’s magazine, Water Gardening. I find that the vast majority of pond books have conflicting information. Most of the typical ones in the pond stores and garden centers are fine for getting the basics and looking at pictures to get ideas for building but I hardly would recommend them on a technical basis. Once you understand the general basics, most of of what you need to know is in a general physics or math book. I.e. pump flows, volume calculations, estimations of materials, etc.. Then ask questions here! You’ll STILL get lots of conflicting information!! *LOL* It does take some research to get it right. Or you learn by trial and error. Or course the whole point is the journey though! Getting to the destination just means you have pick a new destination for a new journey. Craig <snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile?
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Watergardening is yet another good magazine….. but not as good as Pond & Garden (imo) !
I second that! Pond & Garden is the most beautiful and informative magazine I have ever read …. on any subject. Judy from California
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Whoops.. your correct.. see what happens you stay up late at night and try to rely on an aging brain? Craig – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Craig, I can understand your confusion… but Helen Nash is editor of Pond & Garden magazine. Watergardening is yet another good magazine….. but not as good as Pond & Garden (imo) ! Any of Helen Nash’s books are very good. She goes through the basics without clobbering one with technicalities. I have all her books but for newbies I like "Low Maintenance for Water Gardens"; "The Complete Pond Builder"; and "The Pond Doctor". Again, these not for the technically inclined, rather they are for the newbie. Nedra Zone 6+ Visit my ponds: www.geocities.com/Heartland/Pines/4836 I can only recommend Helen Nash’s magazine, Water Gardening. I find that the vast majority of pond books have conflicting information. Most of the typical ones in the pond stores and garden centers are fine for getting the basics and looking at pictures to get ideas for building but I hardly would recommend them on a technical basis. Once you understand the general basics, most of of what you need to know is in a general physics or math book. I.e. pump flows, volume calculations, estimations of materials, etc.. Then ask questions here! You’ll STILL get lots of conflicting information!! *LOL* It does take some research to get it right. Or you learn by trial and error. Or course the whole point is the journey though! Getting to the destination just means you have pick a new destination for a new journey. Craig <snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile?
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I just ordered Helen Nash’s Plants for Water Gardens book. I can’t wait to get it!!! This is the area I’m having the hardest time with trying to figure out what plants to get, sizes I need and hardy for my zone. This will make life so much simpler!!! Now I can pick my plants and surf the web to order them!!! : ) Then know exactly what to do come winter and lots of other stuff!!! })i({ Cindy })i({ If you think the grass is greener on the other side, get fertilizer!!! : ) Live, Love, Laugh!!! Don’t lose sight of lifes simple treasures, they cost nothing yet are priceless
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Thanks to all who responded. I’ve filed all the suggestions away, hoping to make use of them as winter reading material.
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Hello! I live in SW Michigan (Zone 5/6). I’m thinking about installing a pond and have a few questions. First of all, does this NG have a FAQ I can refer to? I’m new and I hate to ask the same old same old… Second: I have been reading stuff for about a year, and if all things were equal, I would use a high quality liner for my pond. However, I am now the busy owner of a 1 yr old standard Poodle (the big size) who loves being in water. I made a small pond out of an old wheelbarrow last summer when he a puppy and he was in it all the time. I am concerned that he will occasionally get in the new pond and poke his nice big toenails right through the lining. I would of course attempt to teach him not to get in but he is quite ornery! I guess I am interested in whether the lining material can withstand a 60 lb dog or not. (I’m guessing not!) A local discount pet supply business sells MacCourt pre-formed pools. They have a Lotus on sale that I am looking at. However, it (and all of MacCourts other models) is only 18" deep. From my reading this appears to be too shallow to keep fish over winter. The shop assures me that they will be OK. Are they just trying to get rid of this pond (it’s been sitting there all winter)? I am interested only in a few goldfish, nothing fancy. I don’t want to bring anything inside during the winter. Thanks. I appreciate any answers you have for me! Catherine
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Catherine, Check your local Feed stores for Stock Watering Tanks. They are real cheap and come in several shapes and sizes. They are easy to manuver as are galvanized metal. Metal needs to be painted inside with rubber or waterproofing paint to keep from leaching. They have a drain screw on the side bottom. Keep dirt from this area so can reach it. I have one sunk in ground to grade, that is 3′ deep and 6′ round. Small submersible fountain in bottom, two small lily baskets, flattish rocks around rim, bamboo beside. Makes a nice entry by front door. Sally
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Check your local Feed stores for Stock Watering Tanks. I have one sunk in ground to grade, that is 3′ deep and 6′ round. Small submersible fountain in bottom, two small lily baskets, flattish rocks around rim, bamboo beside. Makes a nice entry by front door. Sally
Thanks, I’ll be checking into this. Does being so round look weird or have you softened the edges with plants. My pond will be by our front entrance also. In that spot it won’t look totally natural but I don’t want it to look absolutely out of place or fake either. Catherine
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Thanks, I’ll be checking into this. Does being so round look weird or have you softened the edges with plants. My pond will be by our front entrance also. In that spot it won’t look totally natural but I don’t want it to look absolutely out of place or fake either.
Catherine, Symmetrically shaped ponds are called "formal". If you don’t try to naturalize it too much round doesn’t look odd at all. You can trim the edges with paving stones or bricks, etc. and soften the edges with plants that drape over and into the water as well as some that stand tall. A small fountain can complete the more formal look. "Formal" in this case doesn’t have to mean that you have to wear a ball gown to walk by it. It just means you MEANT for it to look that way. To me, the harder you TRY to make a symmetrical pond look natural the worse it looks. Go ahead and intend for it to be round by the type of surrounding plants and pavers you use! Good luck! — Signed, Kellie My Karma Ran Over My Dogma. It was a catastrophe! Now my dogma’s dead and my karma’s out of alignment. Get in "Knee Deep"! The Internet Pond Society http://w3.one.net/~rzutt/newsletter.html
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I have a few questions as I ponder what the spring thaw will bring me when I take the cover off the pond. A long, LONG time ago, i saw a post about something like a glass "bridge" that extended out of the water, but allowed the fish to swim through it. I know that this is not a very good description, but that is all that I can really remember. If anyone knows what I am talking about, is it possible to either buy or make one that would extend between our two ponds (approx. 15") that the fish could swim through? ALSO, I am looking for something interesting to put into our ponds that would be peaceful with the other animals (fish and frogs) but at the same time, would be interesting. I was considering maybe adding a crawdad or two, or even a water dog. Will this work, has anyone had any success with it? Thanks in advance krudman
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What you’re looking for is the Aqua Span. Overall length is 36" and height is 15". Sells for $149.95US. I found it at www.thatpetplace.com — Bahnee in Craig, CO Attitoad is Everything! http://members.tripod.com/~bahnee
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that bridge thing…..i have seen it in one of my pond cataloges……but which one?….i think they had it for about $150….it actually looks pretty cool…..sorry i can’t remember which one though… I have a few questions as I ponder what the spring thaw will bring me when I take the cover off the pond. A long, LONG time ago, i saw a post about something like a glass "bridge" that extended out of the water, but allowed the fish to swim through it. I know that this is not a very good description, but that is all that I can really remember. If anyone knows what I am talking about, is it possible to either buy or make one that would extend between our two ponds (approx. 15") that the fish could swim
through?
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I have a few questions as I ponder what the spring thaw will bring me when I take the cover off the pond. A long, LONG time ago, i saw a post about something like a glass "bridge" that extended out of the water, but allowed the fish to swim through it.
I guessing maybe looking at these websites: www.petwhse.com or www.thatpetplace.com ALSO, I am looking for something interesting to put into our ponds that would be peaceful with the other animals (fish and frogs) but at the same time, would be interesting. I was considering maybe adding a crawdad or two, or even a water dog. Will this work, has anyone had any success with it?
Forget the crawdads they pick on sleeping fish. Waterdog, don’t know. See my ponds thru the seasons: http://home.earthlink.net/~alanjordan1/jjspond/index.html ~Keep ‘em Wet!~ ~jan~ Tri-Cities WA Zone 7a Remove Z to E-mail
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… A long, LONG time ago, i saw a post about something like a glass "bridge" that extended out of the water, but allowed the fish to swim through it
It was a plexiglass bridge that someone had seen in an ad in the back of a ponding mag. The general consensus was that it would work, but would grow a lot of algae, and be impossible to keep clean. ALSO, I am looking for something interesting to put into our ponds that would be peaceful with the other animals (fish and frogs) but at the same time, would be interesting. I was considering maybe adding a crawdad or two, or even a water dog. Will this work, has anyone had any success with it?
From what I’ve learned about water dogs (mud puppies around here), they would be fine. Not crawdads, though. They have been known to nip sleeping or dormant fish and eat them when that little strategy resulted in death. I have had stealth crawdads in my pond (didn’t know they were there) and they didn’t do that, but otheres have had it happen, and besides they don’t keep the detritus off the bottom very well. Ann in Houston
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I am leaving for Australia in a few weeks. Arriving in Sidney I am just wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to which hostel I should make reservations, or if I need to make reservations at? Also if anyone knows if jobs , and what type of jobs are available? I have a bus pass taking me along Melbourne, Adelaide, Alice Springs and back down the East Coast. What type of year is it dangerous to swim at the Northern East Coast? Is it dangerous at all beaches? And one more question… How early should I make reservations at a hostel for Christmas?
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I am leaving for Australia in a few weeks. Arriving in Sidney I am just wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to which hostel I should make reservations, or if I need to make reservations at?
Reservations in October? I don’t think so. Sydney has an incredible amount of hostel capacity. Even at Christmas you’ll be fine as long as you show up by 8 or 9 in the morning and are willing to try a few places. Also if anyone knows if jobs, and what type of jobs are available?
Largely the same types of jobs you’ll find in Canada… though if you don’t have a work visa your options will be much more limited. miguel
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Hello all, We are new to the pond world and were hoping to get some information. We bought our first house last year; it’s on two acres out in the country and had been vacant for several years. After a lot of general maintenance, we are finally ready to get the cement pond going! Our first question has to do with size. The sides of our pond are sloped inward so steeply that the formula for calculating the gallons wouldn’t be acurate. It’s about ten feet in diameter and four feet deep at the deepest point, but the sides slope inward severely – i.e., it’s only a foot deep 12 inches in from the side. Any math geniuses out there? We would just like to have a general idea. Our second question is this: after filling it up the first time, we quickly realized that we didn’t like seeing the light concrete color at the bottom. We would like to know what we can use to make it black. A liner is not an option; it’s got a rock border already in place. And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. Any info would be helpful – we appreciate your time! best regards, melissa and gregg
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During the ponding season a pump should run 24/7. Once the water temp. reaches the mid-40s and is going to stay there for a while you can shut the pump off. More details will help – how many fish and what size are they, what kind of plants, a filter, waterfall or fountain? Where you live will determine much of your winter activities. And your zone. You can check out the third link in my sig. for lots of good websites. Welcome to rec.ponds!! K30A See my brother’s website http://WWW.30acreimaging.com/ see the labradors at http://www.daydreamergardens.com/2_level/articles/dog_how_to.htm K30A and friends’ pond information page http://hometown.aol.com/k30a/myhomepage/writing.html
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If you just want a rough idea of the volume, try this: find a container of five to ten gallons, or anything that you know the volume, and clock it to see how long it takes to fill it up w/your hose. Then, w/out turning off the hose, fill up the pond, timing it again. Then, just do the math, using the timed flow rate that you detemined with the small container. As for the color, there are several kinds of concrete paint available, and some of them will seal up any pores or cracks in the concrete at the same time. Just go to any full service hardware or paint store and ask what kind to use. Good luck, and hope this helped. — Easy ~ Pond is the newest distributor for Permalon pond liners. Stronger, lighter, and sized per order, Permalon is comparable to EPDM in price only. Contact me via email for more information. Before you buy.
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Melissa, the gallonage is easy to calculate but I’ll have to make some assumptions since you imply that the pond is circular (when you speak of diameter instead of length and width) and that the sides slope down at a 45 degree angle (one foot out equals one foot down). In this case that would mean that where it’s 4 feet deep, is only a 2 foot diameter circle at the center. So you have an upside-down truncated cone. If this is the case for a (very) rough estimate of gallons it’s pi r squared one-half h minus the truncated part, or 3.14 * 5*5*2.5* 7.5 gallons minus the truncated part gallons (only about 12 gallons), or about 1450 gallons. You can also use the flow method as another poster suggested, timing first how long it takes to fill 5 gallons using a 5 gallon bucket, then timing how long it takes to fill the pond. The ratio of the first time to the second time is the ratio of 5 gallons to your pond’s gallons. I wouldn’t get too hung up on exact gallons, it’s just a guide to help you plan for plants, fish, pump. You could be plus or minus 150 gallons or so and it wouldn’t make a great difference for most things. Tim
| Our first question has to do with size. The sides of our pond are sloped | inward so steeply that the formula for calculating the gallons wouldn’t be | acurate. It’s about ten feet in diameter and four feet deep at the deepest | point, but the sides slope inward severely – i.e., it’s only a foot deep 12 | inches in from the side. Any math geniuses out there? We would just like to | have a general idea.
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I agree with Mike on the painting. Algae will form on the sides and bottom in no time. It would cover your paint job anyways so why bother. })i({ Cindy })i({ If you think the grass is greener on the other side, get fertilizer!!! : ) Live, Love, Laugh!!! Don’t lose sight of lifes simple treasures, they cost nothing yet are priceless
Response:
snip Our first question has to do with size. The sides of our pond are sloped inward so steeply that the formula for calculating the gallons wouldn’t be acurate. It’s about ten feet in diameter and four feet deep at the deepest point, but the sides slope inward severely – i.e., it’s only a foot deep 12 inches in from the side. Any math geniuses out there?
The way to find out the gallonage in this pond would be to measure it if you fill it again. Fill a container of known gallons and time it. Then fill the pond. The time x the gallons in the container is the ponds volume. Our second question is this: after filling it up the first time, we quickly realized that we didn’t like seeing the light concrete color at the bottom. We would like to know what we can use to make it black. A liner is not an option; it’s got a rock border already in place.
It won’t stay this color as algae will cover the sides after a short while, this is good. If you really don’t like the color, you can drain it and coat it with Thoroseal which can be dyed with standard concrete colors. And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day.
Filter pumps run 24/7. Feature pumps can be run when desired. FAQ at http://w3.one.net/~rzutt/faq.html snip
– hth – how no NEWS is good
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<snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day.
After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –
Response:
I can only recommend Helen Nash’s magazine, Water Gardening. I find that the vast majority of pond books have conflicting information. Most of the typical ones in the pond stores and garden centers are fine for getting the basics and looking at pictures to get ideas for building but I hardly would recommend them on a technical basis. Once you understand the general basics, most of of what you need to know is in a general physics or math book. I.e. pump flows, volume calculations, estimations of materials, etc.. Then ask questions here! You’ll STILL get lots of conflicting information!! *LOL* It does take some research to get it right. Or you learn by trial and error. Or course the whole point is the journey though! Getting to the destination just means you have pick a new destination for a new journey. Craig – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – <snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile?
Response:
Hi, Any of Helen Nash’s books are a good source of information. I like her "Low-Maintenance Water Gardens" and "The Pond Doctor". Barron’s "Water Gardens" has much info for a little book. It even has section for building bridges. For plants Helen Nash’s "Aquatic Plants & Their Cultivation", American Horticultural Society "Ponds & Water Features". As you can see, there are many good books. These are just a few of my collection. I don’t know if this helps or just adds to the confusion. — Bonnie NJ http://www.users.fast.net/~maebe/index.htm – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – <snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile?
Response:
Craig, I can understand your confusion… but Helen Nash is editor of Pond & Garden magazine. Watergardening is yet another good magazine….. but not as good as Pond & Garden (imo) ! Any of Helen Nash’s books are very good. She goes through the basics without clobbering one with technicalities. I have all her books but for newbies I like "Low Maintenance for Water Gardens"; "The Complete Pond Builder"; and "The Pond Doctor". Again, these not for the technically inclined, rather they are for the newbie. Nedra Zone 6+ Visit my ponds: www.geocities.com/Heartland/Pines/4836
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I can only recommend Helen Nash’s magazine, Water Gardening. I find that the vast majority of pond books have conflicting information. Most of the typical ones in the pond stores and garden centers are fine for getting the basics and looking at pictures to get ideas for building but I hardly would recommend them on a technical basis. Once you understand the general basics, most of of what you need to know is in a general physics or math book. I.e. pump flows, volume calculations, estimations of materials, etc.. Then ask questions here! You’ll STILL get lots of conflicting information!! *LOL* It does take some research to get it right. Or you learn by trial and error. Or course the whole point is the journey though! Getting to the destination just means you have pick a new destination for a new journey. Craig <snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile?
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Watergardening is yet another good magazine….. but not as good as Pond & Garden (imo) !
I second that! Pond & Garden is the most beautiful and informative magazine I have ever read …. on any subject. Judy from California
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Whoops.. your correct.. see what happens you stay up late at night and try to rely on an aging brain? Craig – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Craig, I can understand your confusion… but Helen Nash is editor of Pond & Garden magazine. Watergardening is yet another good magazine….. but not as good as Pond & Garden (imo) ! Any of Helen Nash’s books are very good. She goes through the basics without clobbering one with technicalities. I have all her books but for newbies I like "Low Maintenance for Water Gardens"; "The Complete Pond Builder"; and "The Pond Doctor". Again, these not for the technically inclined, rather they are for the newbie. Nedra Zone 6+ Visit my ponds: www.geocities.com/Heartland/Pines/4836 I can only recommend Helen Nash’s magazine, Water Gardening. I find that the vast majority of pond books have conflicting information. Most of the typical ones in the pond stores and garden centers are fine for getting the basics and looking at pictures to get ideas for building but I hardly would recommend them on a technical basis. Once you understand the general basics, most of of what you need to know is in a general physics or math book. I.e. pump flows, volume calculations, estimations of materials, etc.. Then ask questions here! You’ll STILL get lots of conflicting information!! *LOL* It does take some research to get it right. Or you learn by trial and error. Or course the whole point is the journey though! Getting to the destination just means you have pick a new destination for a new journey. Craig <snip And last, can anyone suggest a good book or website where we can learn general information? We don’t even know if the pump has to stay on at all times, or if it only needs to be run for a certain number of hours per day. After watching this thread for a few days, I’m wondering why no one has suggested any books – which is why I’m lurking here – wondering what books are there that would be good for newbies. Are there any that you experienced people have found worthwhile?
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I just ordered Helen Nash’s Plants for Water Gardens book. I can’t wait to get it!!! This is the area I’m having the hardest time with trying to figure out what plants to get, sizes I need and hardy for my zone. This will make life so much simpler!!! Now I can pick my plants and surf the web to order them!!! : ) Then know exactly what to do come winter and lots of other stuff!!! })i({ Cindy })i({ If you think the grass is greener on the other side, get fertilizer!!! : ) Live, Love, Laugh!!! Don’t lose sight of lifes simple treasures, they cost nothing yet are priceless
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Thanks to all who responded. I’ve filed all the suggestions away, hoping to make use of them as winter reading material.
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Hello! I live in SW Michigan (Zone 5/6). I’m thinking about installing a pond and have a few questions. First of all, does this NG have a FAQ I can refer to? I’m new and I hate to ask the same old same old… Second: I have been reading stuff for about a year, and if all things were equal, I would use a high quality liner for my pond. However, I am now the busy owner of a 1 yr old standard Poodle (the big size) who loves being in water. I made a small pond out of an old wheelbarrow last summer when he a puppy and he was in it all the time. I am concerned that he will occasionally get in the new pond and poke his nice big toenails right through the lining. I would of course attempt to teach him not to get in but he is quite ornery! I guess I am interested in whether the lining material can withstand a 60 lb dog or not. (I’m guessing not!) A local discount pet supply business sells MacCourt pre-formed pools. They have a Lotus on sale that I am looking at. However, it (and all of MacCourts other models) is only 18" deep. From my reading this appears to be too shallow to keep fish over winter. The shop assures me that they will be OK. Are they just trying to get rid of this pond (it’s been sitting there all winter)? I am interested only in a few goldfish, nothing fancy. I don’t want to bring anything inside during the winter. Thanks. I appreciate any answers you have for me! Catherine
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Catherine, Check your local Feed stores for Stock Watering Tanks. They are real cheap and come in several shapes and sizes. They are easy to manuver as are galvanized metal. Metal needs to be painted inside with rubber or waterproofing paint to keep from leaching. They have a drain screw on the side bottom. Keep dirt from this area so can reach it. I have one sunk in ground to grade, that is 3′ deep and 6′ round. Small submersible fountain in bottom, two small lily baskets, flattish rocks around rim, bamboo beside. Makes a nice entry by front door. Sally
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Check your local Feed stores for Stock Watering Tanks. I have one sunk in ground to grade, that is 3′ deep and 6′ round. Small submersible fountain in bottom, two small lily baskets, flattish rocks around rim, bamboo beside. Makes a nice entry by front door. Sally
Thanks, I’ll be checking into this. Does being so round look weird or have you softened the edges with plants. My pond will be by our front entrance also. In that spot it won’t look totally natural but I don’t want it to look absolutely out of place or fake either. Catherine
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Thanks, I’ll be checking into this. Does being so round look weird or have you softened the edges with plants. My pond will be by our front entrance also. In that spot it won’t look totally natural but I don’t want it to look absolutely out of place or fake either.
Catherine, Symmetrically shaped ponds are called "formal". If you don’t try to naturalize it too much round doesn’t look odd at all. You can trim the edges with paving stones or bricks, etc. and soften the edges with plants that drape over and into the water as well as some that stand tall. A small fountain can complete the more formal look. "Formal" in this case doesn’t have to mean that you have to wear a ball gown to walk by it. It just means you MEANT for it to look that way. To me, the harder you TRY to make a symmetrical pond look natural the worse it looks. Go ahead and intend for it to be round by the type of surrounding plants and pavers you use! Good luck! — Signed, Kellie My Karma Ran Over My Dogma. It was a catastrophe! Now my dogma’s dead and my karma’s out of alignment. Get in "Knee Deep"! The Internet Pond Society http://w3.one.net/~rzutt/newsletter.html
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Joshua: I noticed in my earlier reply I did not really answer a couple of your questions. You asked: How painful is this? Also how is this disease going to effect my life? Will it make a difference in the things I do? With respect to pain, although some Crohn’s patients experience a significant amount of pain during flareups, my pain was not that bad. It was more an experience of frustration and a systemic "sick" feeling that is hard to describe, but you sure know it when you experience it. With prednisone, you will also experience lability, irritability and possibly insomnia? How did it affect my life? Considerably. Although only once, when I was hosptialized during a flareup and again when I had surgery did it ever disable me enough that I couldn’t work. During flareups, I felt lousy. Also, because of the joint pains, it meant initially that I had to give up playing hockey and other strenuous sports, and it almost forced me to give up hiking while birding. The prednisone made me put on a lot of weight (which I lost after surgery). It caused me worry about getting colon cancer. It cost money (I have an 80 percent deducitble insurance). It’s made it difficult to change jobs for fear of losing my insurance coverage. How is it going to affect your life? That’s hard to say. I don’t know how old you are or much about you. I don’t know how well you will respond to medication. I don’t know what drugs you will be on and how they will affect you. I also do not know what new treatment therapies will come about in the future. But having Crohn’s certainly will affect your life. My guess is you will have good periods (remission) and bad times (flareups). You have a chronic disease that, at this time, is not curable. But, as the numerous people on this newsgroup will attest, you still can have a long and fulfilling live with this disease. And, you can have hope that treatments will improve or even that there will be a cure.
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Everyone …. Please put on your FOIL HATS cause I am taking anti depressants and its not cause I was depressed !!
Uh-oh!!! Mood swing!! Everybody duck!!! LOL!! Not to worry, Maryjo, we are all on your side, so vent or flame away! We can take it! Hope you are well. Love, Margie
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Kim, The key here is vulnerable. There has to be a mind connection that is pretty strong and going on much of the time. Not everyone is vulnerable and some have a very strong constitution and are not affected. Those that go their own way pretty much are not affected, a little bit of dependency seems to play a part. Gail
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Margie Considering I am in the middle of week 6 without smoking (yes still on the patches but down to the middle patch now) I am really in a fantastic frame of mind … Denis said I am filling in the bones of my body … I feel great (other then I am tired) Maryjo come visit my homepage: "http://community.webtv.net/MaryjoL/MYPAGE"
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When that person is on the drug, he/she unknowingly can cause a vulnerable person to develop the symptoms of crohns
That’s a joke right? You can get crohns from someone taking antidepressants? Then everyone in my family would have it. 
) And all my friends too. Hmmm.
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Please lets not give this type of information to someone that has no idea of the disease anyway. I do not believe in what you say as it does not relate to me. Lynn in Fl
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Joshua, Take it from an old Jewish grandma who has seen and experienced crohns (presently also) what she knows causes crohns, and if one is lucky can have it gone quickly. It all depends on some other person who is close in relationship to the crohnie (friend or family) who happens to be on a stimulant drug, such as amphetamine, diet drug, anti-depressant, marijuana, cocaine, depakote, buspar, seratonin drug, or 1 of many I could not know of that have a stimulant as an ingredient in it. When that person is on the drug, he/she unknowingly can cause a vulnerable person to develop the symptoms of crohns. The really unbelievable part (but true) is that the two (or more) persons do not have to be in the same room for the crohnie to have the symptoms, they can be miles apart. Sounds incredible, but it matches the weird illness that crohns is. Continue with your doctor, but this, if you can relate, will make you free of crohns if the person will stop the drug. However, most will not stop, they don’t believe they can affect another person, in that case, I sever ALL contact with the person and hope that time will sever all our mind connections, because as long as the drug and mind connection continue, so does crohns. Joshua, I’d like to see you well, sometimes a mother could be on an anti-depressant and not think it important enough to tell her children, so ask EVERYONE. When it comes to health, shyness will get one nowhere. I.m well known on the group, but don’t wish to post generally, until ALL my symptoms are gone, as the son of a bitch that is on anti-depressants whom I used to talk to every day for five years when he was on tranquillizers and said he would never take anti-depressants decided to take them when we had a disagreement, and I didn’t want him to call me anymore. He doesn’t believe the theory, but he said he will hurt me, and he IS. Wishing you well, Gail Michael Chicago
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Everyone …. Please put on your FOIL HATS cause I am taking anti depressants and its not cause I was depressed !! Maryjo come visit my homepage: "http://community.webtv.net/MaryjoL/MYPAGE"
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I started taking 6-mp 5 weeks ago. I started to see an improvement almost immediately. Actually today is the first bad day I’ve had in a "long" time. A few weeks, anyway. I’m so glad to have relatively pain free days that It doesn’t take me too long to start to feel more well than unwell. Amazing what a few nights of good sleep will do. Unfortunately I’m losing water faster than I can drink it now so I broke down and took an immodium which I don’t like to do because it usually causes cramping for me. Toss up between that and probably waking up every hour to go to the potty…If I can keep some of this water down maybe I won’t get that headache tomorrow that I know I will otherwise get as one of those first signs of dehydration. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – ight now I’m hoping that I’ve found a drug that will work to keep me in something close to a remission Hi Kim! i wonder what the drug is that is helping you? i’ve had terrific success with Imuran.. agreeing with you that for me anyway…it was a very benign drug. For pain, i’ve found that the drug Vioxx helps me a bit…at least takes the edge off of the pain. Thanks for your letter here… how true the contents were!! The disease is so unusual and unpredictable…as are the the various reactions to the medicinal therapies that we try! This is certainly a good place to share what we’ve learned, tho….it is so helpful to all of us! debbie
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Joshua, Take it from an old Jewish grandma who has seen and experienced crohns (presently also) what she knows causes crohns, and if one is lucky can have it gone quickly. It all depends on some other person who is close in relationship to the crohnie (friend or family) who happens to be on a stimulant drug, such as amphetamine, diet drug, anti-depressant, marijuana, cocaine, depakote, buspar, seratonin drug, or 1 of many I could not know of that have a stimulant as an ingredient in it. When that person is on the drug, he/she unknowingly can cause a vulnerable person to develop the symptoms of crohns. The really unbelievable part (but true) is that the two (or more) persons do not have to be in the same room for the crohnie to have the symptoms, they can be miles apart. Sounds incredible, but it matches the weird illness that crohns is. Continue with your doctor, but this, if you can relate, will make you free of crohns if the person will stop the drug. However, most will not stop, they don’t believe they can affect another person, in that case, I sever ALL contact with the person and hope that time will sever all our mind connections, because as long as the drug and mind connection continue, so does crohns. Joshua, I’d like to see you well, sometimes a mother could be on an anti-depressant and not think it important enough to tell her children, so ask EVERYONE. When it comes to health, shyness will get one nowhere. I.m well known on the group, but don’t wish to post generally, until ALL my symptoms are gone, as the son of a bitch that is on anti-depressants whom I used to talk to every day for five years when he was on tranquillizers and said he would never take anti-depressants decided to take them when we had a disagreement, and I didn’t want him to call me anymore. He doesn’t believe the theory, but he said he will hurt me, and he IS. Wishing you well, Gail Michael Chicago
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I thought Kim’s response was excellent. I’ve had Crohn’s for about 10 years. Along the way I had a number of flareups and one hospitalization. I was not able to tolerate Asacol, which works well for some people. Imuran kept me in remission for a number of years, but finally even that did not do the trick. Prednisone at high doses works, but the cure is often worse than the disease. In addition to the intestinal flareups, most Crohn’s sufferers encounter other side effects as a result of either the disease or medications. These include joint pain, eye infections, skin irritations, fistualas, sometimes even respiratory problems. I have often suspected that the biblical references to Job’s disease are probably describing Crohn’s Disease. Two years ago, after my last flareup, and after being told that I had precancerous displasia (Crohn’s carries with it an elevated risk for colon cancer), I opted for surgery — an ileosomy. Although the surgery was no picnic, and although I still run the risk of a flare higher up in my digestive tract, it was the best decision I ever made. I feel wonderful. My activities are not restricted in any way. I can eat what I want to eat. My advice to you is to find a really good gastroenterologist. This person is going to be one of the most important people in your life — pick him or her well. There are a whole host of medications that may or may not work for you. Imuran is one with relatively few side effects, although it takes awhile to kick in. There also are new medications coming out all of the time. If surgery is suggested by your GI as an option, don’t rule it out. Of the many people I know who have had an ileostomy, the most common post-surgical reaction is — why didn’t I have this done sooner? If you consider surgery, either drop me a note or join the alt.support.ostomy newsgroup for some tips on things you should do prior to surgery. If you are a smoker, stop smoking. It probably will aggravate your condition. Join the Crohn’s Colitis Foundation of America. It has a lot of good publications on the subject, including People, Not Patients, plus some of your dues and contributions will go towards fighting this disease. Also, get involved in your local CCFA chapter. Many have good meetings and support groups. Remain active in this newsgroup. You will find answers to many questions, discover that there are people who, although they are suffering more than you, remain upbeat and optimistic about life. This newsgroup also allows people to vent their frustrations, which you will feel often — especially during flareups. Develop a sense of humor. You will need it. If you have health coverage or life insurance, try not to lose it. You will have difficulty getting new coverage. Don’t think of this as a death sentence. Odds are overwhelming that you will live to an old age and die from something else. My sympathies are with you, but not my pity. There is life after a Crohn’s diagnosis. Trust me.
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ight now I’m hoping that I’ve found a drug that will work to keep me in something close to a remission
Hi Kim! i wonder what the drug is that is helping you? i’ve had terrific success with Imuran.. agreeing with you that for me anyway…it was a very benign drug. For pain, i’ve found that the drug Vioxx helps me a bit…at least takes the edge off of the pain. Thanks for your letter here… how true the contents were!! The disease is so unusual and unpredictable…as are the the various reactions to the medicinal therapies that we try! This is certainly a good place to share what we’ve learned, tho….it is so helpful to all of us! debbie
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Hello I just found this newsgroup and was wondering if anyone could help me? Last week my doctor told me I might have crohns. This was the first time I had ever heard of it. To be sure I need to have a colonoscopy. Here is where my questions start. How painful is this? Also how is this disease going to effect my life? Will it make a difference in the things I do? Everyone tells me that its not a big deal, but anything with disease at the end of it scares the hell out of me. Any advise you can give would be appreciated. thanks
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Lots of times you can find information to common questions if you search the archives of this newsgroup. For example, I’m sure you can read about the prep for the colonoscopy which I think everyone agrees is the worst part, to your hearts content. Of course make sure they are going to use a sedative/pain combination similar to versed/demerol. Anyway I’d first like to ask who tells you it’s not a big deal? I think that the answer is, it depends on your treatment, your reaction to it and how lucky you are regarding the course the disease takes. For most people it takes many attempts to find the correct medicine to keep things under control. Unfortunately while we’re trying to figure out what works we’re often getting worse, causing permanent damage that cannot be undone except for surgery. If I had any advice for you it would be to treat it as aggressively as you should. By this I mean don’t wait a year feeling bad taking one of the relatively benign drugs like asacol or pentasa until you decide it’s not working and you need to try an immunosupressant drug like immuran or 6-mp. Prednisone has it’s use for a quick "get the flare under control" purposes but it should not be used long term. The side effects are enough for most people not to want to take this drug too long. I’ve been diagnosed since 1997 and have had surgery this year. I have had lots of pain on a daily basis. Sometimes I find my life seriously interrupted by this disease, though for the most part you find ways to get on with it. Right now I’m hoping that I’ve found a drug that will work to keep me in something close to a remission. I’m not a doctor, this is just what I’ve learned over the past three years, and what I wished I had known sooner. Also, if it gets to the point that you are in serious pain every day and the meds don’t seem to be working don’t hesitate too long to consider surgery. Most people recommend that you do everything you can first, of course once again I don’t believe that this means the same thing that doesn’t work for a years time… Many of us, me for sure, am sorry I didn’t do it sooner. Really I think I figured out surgery would be required to get rid of my pain far before any doctor actually recommended it. You can always take it out later but you can’t put it back being their philosophy. It’s not a death sentence it just means you may have some bad days along with the good. Maybe your disease will be easily controlled and you will have little/no problems. Good luck. P.S. make sure you ask about fleets phosphasoda if your doctor trys to recommend golytely or something else that you have to drink a gallon of. I would absolutely flat-out refuse to do the golytely prep ever again! -Kim – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello I just found this newsgroup and was wondering if anyone could help me? Last week my doctor told me I might have crohns. This was the first time I had ever heard of it. To be sure I need to have a colonoscopy. Here is where my questions start. How painful is this? Also how is this disease going to effect my life? Will it make a difference in the things I do? Everyone tells me that its not a big deal, but anything with disease at the end of it scares the hell out of me. Any advise you can give would be appreciated. thanks
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joshua, you are heading down a long road of learning every person reacts differently cd can effect any part of digestion from mouth to rectum unfortunatly each flare up does not return the disease to the same spot it can return to same spot but no guarantees I am 28 and have been getting treatment since 1990 I have had 2 surgerys I am currently haveing a flare and will do anything to avoid surgery I can only advise to you this get as informed as possible it helps to know all options and treatments and get a second oppinion if you want…no one says you must believe the first md that looks inside you. keep up with support either on line or local even if you do not talk just reading about others helps to remember that you are not alone . you diserve to feel good I think we all do! the pains will come and they will go some times it will be long peroids /b/ pain and flare ups and then seem so much worse then ever b/4 I think our minds play tricks on us I think we forget just how bad we felt I try to be really productive and active on good days cuz I never know when a bad day is gonna be at my door I hope you get as much from this group as I have some days I just lurk around listening it helps me jolly
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello I just found this newsgroup and was wondering if anyone could help me? Last week my doctor told me I might have crohns. This was the first time I had ever heard of it. To be sure I need to have a colonoscopy. Here is where my questions start. How painful is this? Also how is this disease going to effect my life? Will it make a difference in the things I do? Everyone tells me that its not a big deal, but anything with disease at the end of it scares the hell out of me. Any advise you can give would be appreciated. thanks
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I dont know about the other stuff, but I know that when you have black looking stools, it usually means intestinal/rectal bleeding. You should go to the doctor.
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Paula, I mentioned that my GI allowed me to continue my medication regime despite elevated liver enzymes because further testing done indicated that the amount of the medication I was taking was way below the threshold of what my body was capable of absorbing. It was only because of this additional test that he allows it and I trust that he will cut me off when appropriate as we continue to monitor me monthly. Prior to the additional testing my GI would lower my dosage if my LFT values reached double normal. I would ask your GI specifically what he/she would do for your in your circumstances as each individual is different as is the combination of medications they are taking. mgbio – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – A few questions: I read that people with IBD can have a deficiency in the enzyme lipase. In my case, due to med however my blood test result has me nearly double the normal high value. A high value indicates if I understood correctly, a possible pancreatic problem. Has anyone’s pancreas been damaged due to their medications? I read here that GI’s let you have elevated liver enzymes when on meds. Can someone give me an idea as to where a person needs to be told to stop the meds and let the liver recoup? the word "elevated" can mean many tings; double normal high, triple?? what. Please give ranges and measurement in your answer when possibily appropriate; they vary from place to place; my lab: ALT normal range is 1 – 40 U/L GGT normal range 8 – 35 U/L lipase normal range 0 – 60 U/L The 0 value does not jive with what I read re decreased enzymes; anyone who can help with proper medical data? Values for blood transfusions tossed around here were in the 70’s??? what is the measurement for that, and is this figure right? and where can I find where that compares to umol/L Last, is it normal to have black looking stools after taking pepto-bismal ( pink stuff) for heartburn/ indigestion type pains. Thanks for any answers to the above you can give.
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A few questions: I read that people with IBD can have a deficiency in the enzyme lipase. In my case, due to med however my blood test result has me nearly double the normal high value. A high value indicates if I understood correctly, a possible pancreatic problem. Has anyone’s pancreas been damaged due to their medications? I read here that GI’s let you have elevated liver enzymes when on meds. Can someone give me an idea as to where a person needs to be told to stop the meds and let the liver recoup? the word "elevated" can mean many tings; double normal high, triple?? what. Please give ranges and measurement in your answer when possibily appropriate; they vary from place to place; my lab: ALT normal range is 1 – 40 U/L GGT normal range 8 – 35 U/L lipase normal range 0 – 60 U/L The 0 value does not jive with what I read re decreased enzymes; anyone who can help with proper medical data? Values for blood transfusions tossed around here were in the 70’s??? what is the measurement for that, and is this figure right? and where can I find where that compares to umol/L Last, is it normal to have black looking stools after taking pepto-bismal ( pink stuff) for heartburn/ indigestion type pains. Thanks for any answers to the above you can give.
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writes: RA can affect the joints near the nail also
Let’s face it folks, arthritis can affect damn near anything it wants in any of several forms. Just like J.R.R. Tolkien’s famous character Golum would say, "Nassssssty, Arthritisssss. Yessssss, nasssssty it is, precioussss. golooom." Best, Larry "A smile today could ease pain tomorrow."
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Hi Lynette – I have RA in all 8 of the joints next to the fingernails. All of my toe joints too. I really believe that RA can pop up in ANY soft tissue in the body. Although it hasn’t happened to me, some people have it in the outer ear! -g- Kitty
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<<Let’s face it folks, arthritis can affect damn near anything it wants in any of several forms. And d*mn if I can get my joints to read the text books…I just call ‘em achy… Warm regards, Angela "Formerly, when religion was strong and science weak, men mistook magic for medicine; now, when science is strong and religion weak, men mistake medicine for magic." –Thomas Szasz
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Diana, Thanks for explaining. You don’t have to apologize for confusing me; it is actually enlightening to realize that things aren’t always black and white. The only finger I have that is very bad is the one next to the thumb, so that doesn’t agree with what you heard either. I’m just beginning to realize how much variation there can be in RA. Lynette – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Okay, Lady Andy and Diana, You guys just raised three million more questions for me. My ortho surgeon and RD have always made a clear distinction for me as to which arthritis is causing which knuckles to curl. It sounds like it’s not all that simple. I can’t see your joints- I am not on Enbrel(yet) and even if I could, I’d not be able to tell oa from ra. 3 of my joints are drifted to the left and both little fingers are bent forard toward my palm. The one little finger has been that way from the very early days of RA. I am not saying that I am typical though. I’ve been told thet the finger next to the thumb is seldom involved in RA and I have large second joints on that finger on each hand. My Rd did tell the other doctors that sometimes RA causes problems with the fingernails. I have ridges in my nails.. Sorry if I confused you, bt I didn’t want anyone to think they cant hare RA because their first joint was involved.
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Okay, Lady Andy and Diana, You guys just raised three million more questions for me. My ortho surgeon and RD have always made a clear distinction for me as to which arthritis is causing which knuckles to curl. It sounds like it’s not all that simple.
I can’t see your joints- I am not on Enbrel(yet) and even if I could, I’d not be able to tell oa from ra. 3 of my joints are drifted to the left and both little fingers are bent forard toward my palm. The one little finger has been that way from the very early days of RA. I am not saying that I am typical though. I’ve been told thet the finger next to the thumb is seldom involved in RA and I have large second joints on that finger on each hand. My Rd did tell the other doctors that sometimes RA causes problems with the fingernails. I have ridges in my nails.. Sorry if I confused you, bt I didn’t want anyone to think they cant hare RA because their first joint was involved. idydal-Diana Remove nospam from email address.
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Hi MaryBeth, My rheumatoid arthritis came on sort of the way you describe. I had one badly swollen joint in my hand for about three months, and no one could figure out what was wrong with it or what was going on. Then one of my knees swelled up. At that point I went to see a rheumatologist, who ran the usual initial battery of tests and didn’t find anythi specific. For a while that was all that happened, and then, over the course of about a month, most of my major joints swelled up one by one. By the time I saw the RD again he was ready to diagnose RA. You asked about SAMe. I tried it for about a month and didn’t seem to have any results either for better or for worse. The only drawback of it is the expense, as far as I can see – it may be worth a try. Hope this helps, Robin — Robin Mayhall Community Manager for Physical Conditions drkoop.com http://www.drkoop.com
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Thanks for your reply, Robin. I know we get run down just like anybody but the last thing I would want to do it step up my system. I am glad you didn’t have any problems with it because I thought you would to be honest about it. Harv Houston,Tx – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi MaryBeth, My rheumatoid arthritis came on sort of the way you describe. I had one badly swollen joint in my hand for about three months, and no one could figure out what was wrong with it or what was going on. Then one of my knees swelled up. At that point I went to see a rheumatologist, who ran the usual initial battery of tests and didn’t find anythi specific. For a while that was all that happened, and then, over the course of about a month, most of my major joints swelled up one by one. By the time I saw the RD again he was ready to diagnose RA. You asked about SAMe. I tried it for about a month and didn’t seem to have any results either for better or for worse. The only drawback of it is the expense, as far as I can see – it may be worth a try. Hope this helps, Robin — Robin Mayhall Community Manager for Physical Conditions drkoop.com http://www.drkoop.com
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My ortho surgeon and RD have always made a clear distinction for me as to which arthritis is causing which knuckles to curl. It sounds like it’s not all that simple.
Well, of course they are the experts, and we are not even looking… I’d listen to them, but then nothing is ever really simple, either. I had an older sister with RA and her hands were curled tight. My other sister has curly knuckles near her fingernails and complains that her hands sometimes lock (one at a time) into a fist and she has to struggle to open her hands again. Does that, in combination with the curled knuckles near the nail, sound like it could be PA?
Sounds like it could be either. The distinction of tending to hit the distal tufts of the finger joints for PA is just one of the first "markers" used to figure out what kind of arthritis one has. It is not that easy… of course That’s why the specialists get the big bucks. If your sister has no other signs, like having a history of psoriasis, or signs of characteristic tiny pits in the fingernails, I wouldn’t think first of PA, especially with a family history of RA. The locking can be either, too… certain positions or physical work can make my hands lock, too. Best regards,
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Okay, Lady Andy and Diana, You guys just raised three million more questions for me. My ortho surgeon and RD have always made a clear distinction for me as to which arthritis is causing which knuckles to curl. It sounds like it’s not all that simple. I had an older sister with RA and her hands were curled tight. My other sister has curly knuckles near her fingernails and complains that her hands sometimes lock (one at a time) into a fist and she has to struggle to open her hands again. Does that, in combination with the curled knuckles near the nail, sound like it could be PA? Lynette – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have both, and osteoarthritis affects the joints near the end of the finger by the nail, RA affects the joints in the middle of the finger and adjoining the hand. Just a passing comment here… PA also affects the joints near the end of the finger by the nail (the "distal tufts"). Best regards, RA can affect the joints near the nail also – I have five examples. Idydal-Diana
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I have both, and osteoarthritis affects the joints near the end of the finger by the nail, RA affects the joints in the middle of the finger and adjoining the hand.
Just a passing comment here… PA also affects the joints near the end of the finger by the nail (the "distal tufts"). Best regards,
Response:
I have both, and osteoarthritis affects the joints near the end of the finger by the nail, RA affects the joints in the middle of the finger and adjoining the hand. Just a passing comment here… PA also affects the joints near the end of the finger by the nail (the "distal tufts"). Best regards,
RA can affect the joints near the nail also – I have five examples. Idydal-Diana
Response:
writes: RA can affect the joints near the nail also
Let’s face it folks, arthritis can affect damn near anything it wants in any of several forms. Just like J.R.R. Tolkien’s famous character Golum would say, "Nassssssty, Arthritisssss. Yessssss, nasssssty it is, precioussss. golooom." Best, Larry "A smile today could ease pain tomorrow."
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Hi Lynette – I have RA in all 8 of the joints next to the fingernails. All of my toe joints too. I really believe that RA can pop up in ANY soft tissue in the body. Although it hasn’t happened to me, some people have it in the outer ear! -g- Kitty
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<<Let’s face it folks, arthritis can affect damn near anything it wants in any of several forms. And d*mn if I can get my joints to read the text books…I just call ‘em achy… Warm regards, Angela "Formerly, when religion was strong and science weak, men mistook magic for medicine; now, when science is strong and religion weak, men mistake medicine for magic." –Thomas Szasz
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Diana, Thanks for explaining. You don’t have to apologize for confusing me; it is actually enlightening to realize that things aren’t always black and white. The only finger I have that is very bad is the one next to the thumb, so that doesn’t agree with what you heard either. I’m just beginning to realize how much variation there can be in RA. Lynette – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Okay, Lady Andy and Diana, You guys just raised three million more questions for me. My ortho surgeon and RD have always made a clear distinction for me as to which arthritis is causing which knuckles to curl. It sounds like it’s not all that simple. I can’t see your joints- I am not on Enbrel(yet) and even if I could, I’d not be able to tell oa from ra. 3 of my joints are drifted to the left and both little fingers are bent forard toward my palm. The one little finger has been that way from the very early days of RA. I am not saying that I am typical though. I’ve been told thet the finger next to the thumb is seldom involved in RA and I have large second joints on that finger on each hand. My Rd did tell the other doctors that sometimes RA causes problems with the fingernails. I have ridges in my nails.. Sorry if I confused you, bt I didn’t want anyone to think they cant hare RA because their first joint was involved.
Response:
Okay, Lady Andy and Diana, You guys just raised three million more questions for me. My ortho surgeon and RD have always made a clear distinction for me as to which arthritis is causing which knuckles to curl. It sounds like it’s not all that simple.
I can’t see your joints- I am not on Enbrel(yet) and even if I could, I’d not be able to tell oa from ra. 3 of my joints are drifted to the left and both little fingers are bent forard toward my palm. The one little finger has been that way from the very early days of RA. I am not saying that I am typical though. I’ve been told thet the finger next to the thumb is seldom involved in RA and I have large second joints on that finger on each hand. My Rd did tell the other doctors that sometimes RA causes problems with the fingernails. I have ridges in my nails.. Sorry if I confused you, bt I didn’t want anyone to think they cant hare RA because their first joint was involved. idydal-Diana Remove nospam from email address.
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Hi MaryBeth, My rheumatoid arthritis came on sort of the way you describe. I had one badly swollen joint in my hand for about three months, and no one could figure out what was wrong with it or what was going on. Then one of my knees swelled up. At that point I went to see a rheumatologist, who ran the usual initial battery of tests and didn’t find anythi specific. For a while that was all that happened, and then, over the course of about a month, most of my major joints swelled up one by one. By the time I saw the RD again he was ready to diagnose RA. You asked about SAMe. I tried it for about a month and didn’t seem to have any results either for better or for worse. The only drawback of it is the expense, as far as I can see – it may be worth a try. Hope this helps, Robin — Robin Mayhall Community Manager for Physical Conditions drkoop.com http://www.drkoop.com
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Thanks for your reply, Robin. I know we get run down just like anybody but the last thing I would want to do it step up my system. I am glad you didn’t have any problems with it because I thought you would to be honest about it. Harv Houston,Tx – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi MaryBeth, My rheumatoid arthritis came on sort of the way you describe. I had one badly swollen joint in my hand for about three months, and no one could figure out what was wrong with it or what was going on. Then one of my knees swelled up. At that point I went to see a rheumatologist, who ran the usual initial battery of tests and didn’t find anythi specific. For a while that was all that happened, and then, over the course of about a month, most of my major joints swelled up one by one. By the time I saw the RD again he was ready to diagnose RA. You asked about SAMe. I tried it for about a month and didn’t seem to have any results either for better or for worse. The only drawback of it is the expense, as far as I can see – it may be worth a try. Hope this helps, Robin — Robin Mayhall Community Manager for Physical Conditions drkoop.com http://www.drkoop.com
Response:
My ortho surgeon and RD have always made a clear distinction for me as to which arthritis is causing which knuckles to curl. It sounds like it’s not all that simple.
Well, of course they are the experts, and we are not even looking… I’d listen to them, but then nothing is ever really simple, either. I had an older sister with RA and her hands were curled tight. My other sister has curly knuckles near her fingernails and complains that her hands sometimes lock (one at a time) into a fist and she has to struggle to open her hands again. Does that, in combination with the curled knuckles near the nail, sound like it could be PA?
Sounds like it could be either. The distinction of tending to hit the distal tufts of the finger joints for PA is just one of the first "markers" used to figure out what kind of arthritis one has. It is not that easy… of course That’s why the specialists get the big bucks. If your sister has no other signs, like having a history of psoriasis, or signs of characteristic tiny pits in the fingernails, I wouldn’t think first of PA, especially with a family history of RA. The locking can be either, too… certain positions or physical work can make my hands lock, too. Best regards,
Response:
Okay, Lady Andy and Diana, You guys just raised three million more questions for me. My ortho surgeon and RD have always made a clear distinction for me as to which arthritis is causing which knuckles to curl. It sounds like it’s not all that simple. I had an older sister with RA and her hands were curled tight. My other sister has curly knuckles near her fingernails and complains that her hands sometimes lock (one at a time) into a fist and she has to struggle to open her hands again. Does that, in combination with the curled knuckles near the nail, sound like it could be PA? Lynette – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have both, and osteoarthritis affects the joints near the end of the finger by the nail, RA affects the joints in the middle of the finger and adjoining the hand. Just a passing comment here… PA also affects the joints near the end of the finger by the nail (the "distal tufts"). Best regards, RA can affect the joints near the nail also – I have five examples. Idydal-Diana
Response:
I have both, and osteoarthritis affects the joints near the end of the finger by the nail, RA affects the joints in the middle of the finger and adjoining the hand.
Just a passing comment here… PA also affects the joints near the end of the finger by the nail (the "distal tufts"). Best regards,
Response:
I have both, and osteoarthritis affects the joints near the end of the finger by the nail, RA affects the joints in the middle of the finger and adjoining the hand. Just a passing comment here… PA also affects the joints near the end of the finger by the nail (the "distal tufts"). Best regards,
RA can affect the joints near the nail also – I have five examples. Idydal-Diana
Response:
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I have 3 grown children & now helping & hugging & loving 3 beautiful granddaughters. One DD & her DD live with us (a divorce after college) & I feel like I’m doing the raising part all over again. Funny how each one is so different that there are still new situations that raise their heads now & again requiring a different approach then I may have used with my own along the way. Judy 
I should have passed all 3 with flying colours..but I blew it.. I worked for another year in calgary after that.. (I was living with my uncle at the time) and then after xmas of my second year, my gf and I moved into our first apartment together.. her parents came out in may to visit and she wanted to head back east.. so .. being the loving person I was.. I said ok, and packed everything I had in 3 days and jumped in the back of a saturn.. told no one, and spent 4 days